Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxAction
Well, it might be the case that the installation wasn't up to standard. These systems were installed Australia wide and the installers were paid by the system. I heard numbers coming from NSW where they put in 15 systems per installer per a day. We only ever got it up to 6 systems per day. The Subaru guys here in WA dreaded it when they had to ship a car, because of certain specifications from another state to WA. Without us knowing they did check our standards of workmanship against installers from other states and gave our installer the thumbs up.
Well, the question is was it the alarm module or the keypad module? As I stated the keypad module is causing most if not all of the problems, while the alarm or upgrade modules are working o.k. in most cars. As I stated in my original post we didn't design the brant system and we didn't supply any of it and in my more than 20 years experience in the car alarm industry I have seen some bad system failures. However so far I have not needed to change any of the brant alarm/upgrade modules in WRX cars, but plenty of keypad systems and that's why we looked for an exchange system in order to uphold the level of security required by insurance companies and what these cars require.
Hmm, I guess that depends once again on the standard of installation and the are some guys here claiming that it is a big job. Then I just did a bit more reading here and find prices quoted of $700+ for a new alarm. However that will very from company to company and level of alarm reinstalled. However that sort of $$$ could imho be better spend especially if one can established that the keypad is at fault and not the alarm/upgrade module. That btw was my suggestion rather ripping everything out first and then what ... .
Well, if that is your opinion I will accept it as such. However having read through some more of the threads on here, I found some misinformation, totally wrong statements and some totally misguided advice.
When someone (a WRX owner in trouble) asked me to come on here and share some of my knowledge I had some reservations, but decided that it couldn't hurt to offer some help as there are more intelligent alternatives to the "all out approach".
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Hi there! Before I go on, I have to inform you that I am a licensed auto mechanic and electrician. I also run a Dynapack 4WD dyno tuning Vi-pec, Motec and PFC, with a Carman Diagnostic Scanner and full Snap-on tools.
I have removed so many Brants and repaired them and tell you what, you will have less problems with any other system. By the way, thanks to Brant for giving me so much additional business!
Overview:
The Brant is made up of 2 control units. The main control unit and the secondary control unit
Main Control Unit: Controls the alarm system by piggy backing onto the factory system. This does the starter immobilisation, the shock trigger, anti hijack and the door, boot and bonnet alarm triggers.
Secondary Unit: Control the extra 2 immobilsiation points including the fuel pump via the
ecu.
The case in this post:
#1 Your secondary control unit failed! The dry joints on your secondary board cause the electical arteries to be blocked. Intermittent signals via the
ecu to the fuel pump is just not gonna cut it enough. Therefore, difficulty starting
#2 Secondary control unit failed! While driving, the bad soldering on the board agian has a dry joint. The car intermittently stalls and triggers an
ecu code --- fuel pump failure! Once Mrr dry joint decides to get a little 'wet', it pumps fuel into the engine again and the car gets 'excited' and decides to run again.
Well guys the Brant is repairable but if the main control box fails, you've had it!