Will give it a go - I can't help but feel though, with a time corrected setup, this is somewhat a selfish configuration, and thus front seat passenger may not get best audio. A trade off I suppose.

PS: Nice headunit. I might go back to Double DIN one day. Can they tether off smartphones and get Internet yet?

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Should have bought an STI

Bloody doof doof!!!!
How's the 6speed going?
When you going to come track it?

Ohhh & hope the mrs is recovering well..

I did write a whole other paragraph on making sure you demo passengers in the drivers seat because it'll sound like ass for everyone else but knew you'd be smart enough for that. Glad I wasn't wrong haha.

Yes, they can mirror iPhones with the correct cables. Basically you use the screen on the head unit as you would your iPhone. Awesome for GPS if you've got the data.
Android not so much. Which sucks, and I'm sure someone is working on it but for the mean time my HTC One will be doing all the Bluetooth streaming if I'm not using the iPod.

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No more GC8, sad face.
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Saving for 6 speed. 5 speed is going very well though currently, nice and tight still with the short shifter. Keen for no limits, specially with the amount of popo out right now, and driving sooo incredibly carefully. Been speed-checked 4 times in the last 3 days!

She is recovering well, will live to fight another day. Thankful of course she is not dead. Been driving to and from RPH lots.

Thanks Ash

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Should have bought an STI

Seriously, forget your passenger. Time aligned or not, all they will be hearing is the left side of the system.

When doing your time alignment, use tracks with clear vocals and try to get the vocals centered over the middle of the dash and as high as possible. When adjusting your crossovers, try to get the mid-bass "kick" to come from as far forward in the car as possible (very tricky and dependent on a lot of things - may not be possible for you).

If you like, you're welcome to bring your car over and I'll give you a hand tuning. I assume the app lets you save more than one tune?

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[I]trolololol[/I]

Yeah more than one tune - where are you at? Might have some time up my sleeve.

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Should have bought an STI

I'm in Belmont. On school holidays at the moment so pretty much available whenever. Just flick us a pm =)

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[I]trolololol[/I]

Could be a good idea - Doing some reading about time correction, can't seem to find anything on the net around good time correction settings for GDA/B Subaru's using the stock speaker placement, eg:

Front Left: 1.9 ms
Front Right: 0.45 ms
Rear Left: 0.95 ms
Rear Right: 0

But i might work to that kind of baseline. Also, I heard it's wise/best to set the Sub to Zero? In addition, work on the rear's first, and once happy with those do the fronts and then fade accordingly? And then to work on the parametric EQ ..

Technical shit, almost have to get the calculator out. Speed of sound/temperature * how many beers I have drunk.

The manual for my headunit goes into some detail around TC:

http://www.alpine.com.au/files/2013O...-148EBT_OM.pdf

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For this I will assume all your speakers are wired correctly and in phase etc etc

Set everything to zero, including the gains on the amp/s.

Set your volume to what you would normally listen to your music at. This sets your max volume for good recordings. Next put on a song you know inside-out. Heavy in bass for preferences so you can set the gain on your sub channel to maximum without any clipping. Clipped signal is what kills speakers because it holds them at max excursion. No movement=no air flow=hot voice coils=smokey goodness. Remember to set the low pass so your sub isn't playing any frequencies it shouldn't, I personally go for a low pass of 80Hz with a 12db filter slope. Set the main speakers with a @ similar 12db high pass filter around 90Hz. Depending on your speakers they might like playing down a bit further so it's up to you to decide where to cross them, higher might sound better to you.

Once your sub is sounding good to you, start slowly increasing the gains on your speaker amp using the same philosophy. You don't want any clipped signal.

With every amp now sending power at its optimal level, time correct it for your driving position. If needed get a mate to measure distances from the mid point between tweeter and midbass speakers of front left and front right and from middle of any rear fill left and right and also the sub to your head in your driving position. Write all these down in mm. The futherest speaker to you will be the sub so that will be your baseline for all other measurements eg. time correction=0ms. Subtract that distance from all other measurements and apply t=d(in metres)/v where v=340.3 metres per second. So your measurements divided by 340300 gives the fraction of a second time correction per channel needed so notes from each speaker reach your ears at the same time.

Next adjust the EQ very slowly and one frequency at a time starting low and working up to 20,000Hz. Only go plus or minus one at a time. You'll find with the amps set spot on and everything time aligned you won't need heaps of EQ unless your speakers favour certain frequencies too much.

Bear in mind to get it all just how you like might take weeks because road noise destroys the bass and what sounds good stationary will not be that great on the freeway.

Good luck 😁

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No more GC8, sad face.
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Shit mate that is epic, done it a few times I assume.
Not played with the gains or anything on the amp, but i'm led to believe it's half decent which is good.

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