Motor Run In Procedure - Page 3 - Perth-WRX.com

Josh · #21 09-10-2008, 12:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PIGSTi

I am running another motor in at the moment. Was told to drive it as I normally would. How your tuner sets your car up for your run-in tune will have alot to do with how well your motor runs in and will also limit the way you can drive the car anyway. But lots of load to bed the rings in is the most common bit of advice I hear.

So you're spinning off around Barbs at the moment J?

flashrs · #22 09-10-2008, 12:51 PM

since its a 2.5 running in should be done with care, similar to a diesel briggs and stratton engine and use canola oil to run it in......

Denver · #23 09-10-2008, 02:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim621

Denver - N/A engines have no boost and the rings bed in just fine

Listen to your engine builder and do exactly what he says. Simple....not some internet forum know-it-all! (no offence to anyone but we can all make some incorrect remarks at times

)

Steve.

In this example its a turbo motor, its also imperative to feed boost into the motor when running it in as the rings don't bed properly, given i tried the no boost method on one of my motors i built once apon a time, and it went from 150psi in each bore to 180 psi in each bore after it finally did see boost, meaning the rings hadn't bedded in properly..

and if the rings are not bedded properly, the change in compression ratio will cause detonation and subsequent piston and bearing failure in a turbo motor

so while an NA motor might be fine, its a slightly different world when it comes to a turbo motor..

FROG · #24 09-10-2008, 02:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BLUES

Go with your engine builder's recommendation.

full stop thats it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

BOMB3R · #25 09-10-2008, 02:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Josh

So you're spinning off around Barbs at the moment J?

Josh Helli's at high speed and spinning off are 2 different things

They both have the same end result though........

BN01 · #26 09-10-2008, 03:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Josh

So you're spinning off around Barbs at the moment J?

Zing!

Intra · #27 09-10-2008, 03:28 PM

Its interesting to see that from factory, they drive the car onto a roller bearing dyno straight from the assembly line and beat the living crap out of it and then park it on the side ready for batching and shipping.

Im sure the robots have the clearances down to a tee tho..

edmands_3 · #28 09-10-2008, 04:27 PM

From everything I have read (although it has been mainly naturally aspirated stuff), give it a hard time. There was an article in Street Machine a while back on the top engine builders and they all run their engines in hard. The idea is that you need the higher revs and harder acceleration to push the rings against the bores to make sure that they bed properly before the hone marks have worn out of the bores. If you run at constant low revs and go too soft on the engine you can get glazed bores and the rings won't seal properly.

Having said all that, probably easiest to ask the engine builder what he recommends

subarooboy · #29 09-10-2008, 05:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Denver

drive it gentle and below 5000 rpm for the first 2-300 km

after 300km gradually load it up some more, making sure it hits boost fairly regurally, still stay under 5000 rpm

after 500km, start going higher int he revs and more load, by the 1000km mark you wanna basically be giving it a hard time

staying off boost will not bed the rings in properly to the bore

Guys after working for several credible mechanical workshops (and a few uncredible!) in my younger years, what Denver has highlighted above seems pretty spot on. You don't wanna load it up innitially (beware of low gear and steep hills!), just gently wear the components in etc... however you DO want to give it load after this for sure otherwise you can end up with other issues!

And above all else +3 on following the advice of your engine builder.

STI325V6 · #30 09-10-2008, 06:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slg

Way too many conflicting views and opinions...

First off, if you have new camshafts they must be bed in by not allowing the rpm to drop below 1500. The nose of the lobes can be damaged otherwise.

There has been a lot of research on the effects of run in procedures.

Doing dyno run-in tunes on a wide variety of engines, our procedure was to put the engine under full load/boost from the very initial stages, This has never caused any issues and was the only way to get a full tune done to get the engines back to work for the customers.

All of my own personal engines have always been driven hard from day one, I've NEVER had any issues at all.

You will get a lot of different opinions, best of doing whatever your engine builder recommends to cover yourself and your warranty.

My 2c...

Good point with the cams, I also have new Kelford cams and they recommend reving the engine between 1500 and 2000rpm for 20 bloody minutes......