TMIC draw through thermo fan
 

Ok guys, this might sound like a dumb idea at first, but please read the whole thing.

So, from previous posts, you would know im doing a build to aim for 400whp in my GC8. Now I am set on one thing. I do not want a front mount and thats the limiting thing at the moment, that I would like to retain the Process west TMIC.
Im wondering, my GU Patrol has a TMIC that has a thermo fan underneath it with a shroud, to draw air in and through the intercooler when the car is at low speed. I did some measurements and had a look at the room I had to play with. I used to be a fabricator so Im good at shaping metal. I feel I can easily make a shroud to sit under the intercooler with a large, high volume thermo fant nestled within it. This would draw large amounts of cool air through the intercooler, which would help to keep the intake temps down at low speed and when sitting idle in traffic (it effective makes the intercooler appear to the system to be larger than it is). I could have the fan connected to a relay run by a switch in the cabin.

Im wondering if anyone has tried this before? I know i could "Just get a front mount" but I really dont want to cut portions of the front bumper and also dont want the attention that a front mount brings. Its just a thought at the moment but im interested in hearing your ideas.

In saying all this, the Thermofan on the inter-cooler on my 4wd really brings down the intake temps, especially at low speed, so they definitely work.

Interesting...from what you've explained everything seems to make sense. As long as you have the clearance and nothing's getting hit, give it a go. Can you post some pictures of the Patrol set up?

You won't be cranking out 400hp at low speed anyway so why bother?
When you've got the throttle mashed to enjoy 400hp, the heat soak for that first bit of warm charged air won't be a problem. That much air will cool the cooler or it'll be whipping through it that quick that it won't get time to heat up from a warm core.
I'd sooner spend time and money on a water to air cooler if you want that short pipes.
Or spray a front mount black.

Gu use thermos cause they want full power or more so torque while idle rolling/climbing over stuff

using the Perth-WRX mobile app

This could work. To do it properly have the fan controlled by a temp reading from inside the TMIC.
Testing to see if it works would be a challenge in getting identical conditions, dyno results would not be meaningful.
On the other hand, a TMIC water spray setup may be simpler. Water has a much higher specific heat than air so the volume of water to do the job would be much less than the volume of air.

What kind of conditions do you have to want a performance improvement? -see comments above by Hurtenstein and Jacob92. If you drive in hot weather in heavy traffic, then require full power/torque, or say after a long wait at traffic lights on a hot day and you are in front, then this is what you could try.

Another thought, 400whp, 300kw atw, from a GC8, a good target, it would be at 5000 to 6000 or more rpm when moving at a fair rate. I doubt that the ProcessWest TMIC is the limitation. What turbo will you use?

Stumbled across this yesterday. I know for the current version subaru and the bonnet will be different on a gc8, however it would be quite unique if you could get it to work.

[URL="https://youtu.be/se4FLtGSEjA"]https://youtu.be/se4FLtGSEjA[/URL]

Waste of time. Even if you have a massive fan pulling a shit ton of air through it. The tmic is still not really addequate for 400whp. (If you actually want to be able to use 400whp and not just have a number for bragging rights.)

Water/meth injection.

Front mount or water to air . Even the gu intercoolers with a thermo fan are shit Most will opt for a crosscountry big top mount and use a big bonnet vent or go water to air . The heatsoak at low rpm on a diesel patrol is horrendous , Does the thermo fan help , yes but the intake temps are still ridiculously when high slow moving already. The gu factory top mount sits in a position that the turbo headers and engine all radiate heat through it.

A subaru has a decent void below the top mount and the heat from the turbo can be reduced with decent shielding . The limiting factor at 400whp is the cfm capabilities and size that the cooler can be made in that position . The cfm limitation causes heat , the intercooler surface area limitation causes heat and as soon as the car stops or does slow driving, increased air flow may be had by fitting a fan to pull air through. But it wont do it at a rate to make a big difference also the radiated heat from the motor and its cooling system increases engine bay temps drastically at low speed.

At 400 whp and above the gains had from that power out weigh the lag and pressure drop of a front mount . Utilising an efficient twin scroll or newer designed billet wheel ball bearing turbo charger negates a large portion of the lag. Turbo technology in the newer twinscroll ball bearing turbos is chalk and cheese compared to the 20 year old technology of a vf series turbo.

Water to air is an option especially if the car is in stop start traffic as water has a much better transference of heat to an air to air intercooler. With the right heat exchange fitted and a decent water to air cooler core size your intake temps remain very constant and only fluctuate 10 degrees up or down even in slow driving . Its inherently more stable by design . So 4wds and heavy stop start driving, or short hard runs such as rally sprint are ideally suited to water to air .

The three limiting factors with water to air are : cost. complexity and weight.

A good quality front mount works very well at the whp you are chasing . You can fit a core very neatly in the front with very minor cutting of the bumper if you plan it out and take your time. Front mounts shine in constant moving air , but also shine in the fact that mounted away from the hot engine components they remain much cooler at slow speeds and rest . The heat soak that they do have is usually experienced with the piping and routing of it . Which again if carefully planed out utilising shields heat wrap and a rotated comp housing on the turbo is much much less of a factor then a top mount.

You can still run a water spray system with the front mount to spray at certain intake temps to lower the heat soak . It actually works much better on a front mount due to the surface area and evaporation takes place faster.
I run Water to air on my Rs its a modified factory intercooler that has a 40 % increase in water capacity and uses a heat exchanger at the front well over double the size . This is set up to work with my new motor combo which will be tuned to over 400 whp.

This was a more cost effective and size friendly package for me to use. I entertained the use of a larger aftermarket water to air cooler but the piping started to be an issue with several tight bends and it also taking up way too much room in the bay making removal and fitment an issue. If I hadn't had an rs with the ability to use its modified water to air cooler I would have gone down the front mount route.

I have fitted many water to air cooler systems to 4wds and can tell you a good setup is over 2500 bucks this was the last system I did from plazmaman in a mates GU[URL="http://www.perth-wrx.com/vb/offroad-4wd/58533-gu-patrol-build.html"]http://www.perth-wrx.com/vb/offroad-4wd/58533-gu-patrol-build.html[/URL] .

There are cheaper systems on the market but you get what you pay for material and welding wise . A good front mount all plumbed in and routed neatly is at least 1000 bucks less and even cheaper if the core is second hand . Again yes there are cheaper kits but if you dont like lag, pipes blowing off and corrosion dont skimp.

Being a version 6 if you are worried about cutting the front original bar , dont . Get a second bar and trim that nicely , keep all your factory parts intercooler etc . to provide if you do sell the car so it can be retuned to original condition if the purchaser wants it .

I hope this small novel helps

You beat me small novel ;) good read mate!!

[QUOTE=amtrapid;835467]I hope this small novel helps[/QUOTE]

The US Mazdaspeed (MPS) and GTI guys have been pushing the development of water-Meth injection and it has some amazing results. Their intention is to get more fuel purely because aftermarket injection is not really available.

The MPS guys are more applicable as they like to keep their TMIC too and WMI has shown to get intake temps 15 - 20% cooler and will keep the charge air consistent pull after pull. Most companies [I]claim[/I] up to 20% power gains, but the main benefit is the mid-range and responsibility of performance.

I was researching this for my MPS and GTI and to get a good boost activated (with low level safety switch) for under $1000. Also the fact the fact that you won't be using it all the time you don't use a huge amount and when you mix the meth with distilled water 50/50 it isn't that expensive. You can run 30/70 (water/meth) for an even more cost effective set up.

For those who ask why put water in a motor: the water has to be vapourised (don't cheap on the nozzle) and as it is injected into the hot charge air it evaporates and draws heat out of the air and lowering intake temps, lowering the chance of knock and making he air more dense. This also has a cool side effect where it can [I]steam clean[/I] the intake manifold and valves and will keep it clean.

The methonal does a few things: acts as an anti corrosive , acts and an additional lubricant in the cylinder and actually can increase the octane of the fuel it is mixed with.

I have been tossing the idea around with my current set up to beat the TMIC heat, but I have a few things go before I am doing that.