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#11
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So pretty much with the crankcrase one just go straight from the crankcase to the catch can with the heads teed in.
I will be in touch during the week Anton so when we catch up i'll have a look at your setup...... |
#12
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It depends how many ports you catch can has. If it has 3 then you might as well run the crankcase, head vent, head vent separately. If you only have 2 then you need to tee the crankcase into one of the head vents.
Or you can have a 4 port catch can and have the crankcase, left head vent, right head vent, pcv all going in separately. Also note that on GD cars they seem to have an extra vent on the right hand side. So 2x head vents or something.
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#13
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__________________
"You can turn your back on a person, but, never turn your back on a drug. Especially when it's waving a razor-sharp hunting knife in your eye." - Raoul Duke |
#14
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Thats an awesome DIY thread. Cheers dude.
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#15
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Don't vent to atmosphere. Depending on where you mount the can the fumes can get sucked back into the cabin Ensure your can has some foam inside to help it collect the oil. Vent back to the inlet tract, pre-turbo.
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#16
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My can is mounted right down the back of the engine bay on the passenger side. I prefer to keep it atmos venting due to it's design....
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#17
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If you vent back to you inlet tract you might aswell not bother installing the catch can. The catch can doesn't 'catch' everything and for it to work better I would have the system vent to atmo. What's a few fumes? Harden up!
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#18
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Go one step further, start worrying about catch can fumes when you run a screamer pipe haahha.
"I have moved my screamer pipe fumes beyond the environment officer"
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#19
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theres plenty of ways to hook a 'catch can' up, just make sure you dont pressurise your crankcase, otherwise you'll be pushing the rear main seal out... expensive and messy
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Long live the WRC |
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catch, plumbing |
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