Autowatch alarm/V6 STi
 

Hey guys,

I have removed the Brant and installed an Autowatch alarm in my V6 Sti. Long story but the Brant wasn't working properly and the Autowatch has some cool features which I like, so it's staying this way. I have the Autowatch all connected up but I haven't programmed it yet, and everything is cool except for the central locking ....

When I removed the Brant I located the wires that connect to the central locking behind the kick panel near the accelerator. It's a white wire with silver dots on it. when I disconnected the Brant the doors locked - cool thinks I, I have the right wires. If I earth the wire were it runs back into the car side of the wiring loom the doors unlock, if I take it off earth the doors lock. So far so good.

When I came to wire up the Autowatch though, I discovered that there isn't an option to wire the doors this way, so I had to buy the CI 65 Central Locking Interface Unit, which is essentially two relays in a box and a bunch of different ways to wire it up to control different types of central locking.

But here's the dilemma - none of the ways I can find to wire it up work properly. The Autowatch has to wires coming out of it (brown an brown/white) that momentarily earth when you lock or unlock the car, but I can't for the life of me work out how this can close a relay and keep an earth to hold the doors unlocked, and then hold the wire unearthed to keep the doors locked.

I've read through Fobz's guide and we've spoken on the phone but it seems my wiring is different to his, even though they are both version 6 STi's. Mine is a much later number in the range than Fobz, so maybe that has something to do with it.

Anybody got any great ideas here?? This is doing my head in.

Cheers,

Wrxpc

The two wires coming from the autowatch, what do you mean they temporarily earth?

Where do you live?

When you press the disarm button on the remote, the brown wire earths out (I have an ohm meter across it) for a brief period. When you press the arm button, the brown/white earths out temporarily. It's only for a matter of a second or so.

Ocean Reef way.

If you like I'm PM my mobile number.

Cheers,

Wrxpc

Yeah mate, PM away.

I would be interested to know the outcome of this as
it may be worth updating my DIY.

Hey Fobz,

I haven't gotten anywhere since we last spoke, but Hurtenstein is stopping by tomorrow after work to check it out.

I'll be sure and let you know what we come up with.

Cheers,

Wrxpc

[QUOTE=wrxpc;426048]Hey Fobz,

I haven't gotten anywhere since we last spoke, but Hurtenstein is stopping by tomorrow after work to check it out.

I'll be sure and let you know what we come up with.

Cheers,

Wrxpc[/QUOTE]

If there is still no luck then it might be worth getting our cars
together on the weekend to compare the harnesses between the two.

Call or PM Macey "Bumpstop" as he installs these things and
I'm pretty sure he will be a huge help.

[IMG]http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/2746/locksm.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
This is the way a 2 relay box is used. I forgot to draw the relay coils in the drawing, but you hook 1 wire from the autowatch (brown) to one relay coil, and the other (br/white) to the other relays coil.
With no buttons pressed, the lock driver gets 2 grounds (which does nothing), when either button is pushed, one of the relays will change state running 12V through one side of the solenoid, either pushing it in or out.

I checked out that diagram from Fobz' guide and it should work.

Fobz' method entitled "specialty door locks / (-) pulse/interrupt - nissan " on page 11 of this guide [url] http://www.dlcparts.com/images/BoschGuide.pdf[/url] also demonstrates how to wire it.


If all else fails you can use the two solenoid/actuator wires instead. This is more involved though.

A diagram entitled "reverse polarity door locks / rest at ground" on page 6 of this guide [url] http://www.dlcparts.com/images/BoschGuide.pdf[/url] demonstrates how to wire it. (A word of caution - if you choose this method be sure all your wiring is correct because sending +12v the wrong way will damage a CDL module before you can blink :D)

Hurtenstein: That was one of the wiring options that came with the CI 65 unit, but it didn't work either. Because I only get a momentary earth from the brown wires from the alarm unit (think of it as a negative 'pulse') the doors unlock but lock straight way once the negative pulse goes away - the relay just goes back to it's resting position. If I do it the other way around and have the circuit normally closed (so the doors are always unlocked) the reverse occurs - the negative pulse locks the doors, but they immediately open again once the pulse goes away.

bumpstop: Thanks for that too, I'll have a read. Awesome relay guide by the way :-) it didn't seem to work when I tried it from Fobz's guide, again because it's only a negative pulse I get, not a complete ground, which it seems to need to keep the doors unlocked. The diagram on page 6 looks waaay to hard, I think I'd give up and take it to an auto sparkie before I went there!

Fobz: As you say mate, maybe getting them together is going to be the only way to work this out.

Cheers,

Wrxpc

[QUOTE=wrxpc;426085] it didn't seem to work when I tried it from Fobz's guide, again because it's only a negative pulse I get, not a complete ground, which it seems to need to keep the doors unlocked.
[/QUOTE]

If you have it wired correctly and the factory CDL is operating properly it only needs a pulse.

Here is the offending wire:

[IMG]http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/4052/p1000456resized.jpg[/IMG]

If I earth the wire on the left running back into the main loom, the doors unlock. If I take the earth away, the doors lock. The wire on the right doesn't seem to do jack.

Cheers,

Wrxpc

So that wire up above grounds out when the drivers door is unlocked, telling the CDL to unlock the rest of the doors.
If you join that back up, and use the 2 relay box you bought to run the drivers door solenoid directly, It should be a winner.

wrxpc , pm sent.

Problem solved .. by the very awesome Bumpstop!!

Turns out the problem was with some corrosion in the connectors in the big white plug you can see in the picture. This meant the signal coming back from the door side of the wiring wasn't getting through, so no amount of faffing around that I was doing was ever going to work :icon_sad:

I went to see Bumpstop at Westside Car Audio and he diagnosed the problem and fixed it for me on the spot. Big props to him and the guys at Westside for looking after me today! Nothing like getting someone who does it for a living to sort things out - which highlights the fact that if you don't know what you're doing, get a professional to do it before you fry something ;)

Big thanks also to Fobz and Hurtenstien for the multiple phone calls and messages, great to get such good help from a forum post, it was much appreciated.

I think I owe beers all round!

Cheers,

Wrxpc

You're welcome mate, and was nice to meet another P-WRX member :)

big ups to macey.