Timing Belt Pulleys - Page 3 - Perth-WRX.com

mARC · #21 21-10-2010, 11:03 PM

Thankfully we didn't round any of the allen key bolts, but was a two person job, pretty much threw away the socket by the end of it though as it was well munted after finishing off the fourth one.

One of the head bolts was corroded to buggery 'strangely enough on the same side some of the block one of the ten mill bolts 'I think holding the fuel line brackets', pretty much snapped in half with minimal pressure.

Anyone got thoughts on this?

mARC · #22 21-10-2010, 11:12 PM

Apologies for the lack of improper lingo, still trying to get my head around mechanical speak.

nauli · #23 22-10-2010, 08:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dtrally

I wish I knew the trick Steve????
Sometimes they are stupidly tight. I loosen them before removing the belt, it's a 2 person job if they're tight. One holds the tensioner down so the belt won't slip, with his spare hand he holds a breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt to stop the engine turning. The other person swings off a metre long breaker bar until it undoes with an almightly crack or the 10mm allen key rounds out the capscrew head. Then you carefully cut the head off the bolt to release the camgear and buy a new one.

Above ^^^ someone sugested using a tool called an 'impact driver' this is not recomended on camshaft gear bolts as you can very easily punch the camshaft through it's thrust face and into the head, ruining the whole cylinder head.

I thought you had a trick for everything!!

type25 · #24 22-10-2010, 09:48 PM

I have seen other people round out the female 10mm hex and then try hammering a socket over the outside of the bolt head.

usually resulting in broken cam thrusts.

the avcs sprockets are generally the hardest, as there are no good tools to hold the centre of the sprocket well.

I have a special spanner to locate on the other (fixed/non avcs) sprockets, but sometimes using this and a 900ftlb rattle gun can't undo them.

then I resort to this method.

I have found from personal experience that welding a wheel nut onto the bolt head works best.

with the tapered end of the wheel nut against the bolt head you can get a nice penetrating weld and the heat helps too.

then a rattle gun should spin them out quite easily.

tuna · #25 22-10-2010, 10:21 PM

weld a 19mm nut over it, then replace the bolt.

rubberbudgie · #26 22-10-2010, 11:34 PM

I'm facing a similar ordeal, except what I need is the tool to hold the cam sprocket while the nut is removed. Where would I get such a thing or is there something else I can use to hold the sprocket in place? Always something but at least the engine is out now and on the stand.

dtrally · #27 22-10-2010, 11:54 PM

Refit the belt (use an old one) hold the tensioner down, jam the ring gear so the engine can't turn if it's out of the car.

tuna · #28 23-10-2010, 08:25 AM

use a spanner on the camshaft itself, take the cam-cover off to expose the cam.

i think the magic weird spanner is 1"1/8 there abouts

rubberbudgie · #29 23-10-2010, 02:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dtrally

Refit the belt (use an old one) hold the tensioner down, jam the ring gear so the engine can't turn if it's out of the car.

Did that and it worked like a charm on the exhaust (lower) one but the top one is a being a right bitch and has rounded out the inside of the bolt. And to add insult to injury my welder doesn't have the balls (or the correct wire or combination of the two more likely) to properly weld a 19 mm nut on as suggested by Stace so I'm more or less at a standstill again

ALPHA · #30 03-08-2011, 08:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tuna

weld a 19mm nut over it, then replace the bolt.

+ 1

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