go to your hand controller and set it to show knock, afm voltage and possibly boost?

then if it happens and you see your engine light press the up arrow to show your max values and you will be able to work out which one is out of range and causing the light

like i said same thing happened to me last week and it was the afm

[QUOTE=johnvk7;552723]Matty FTW, still more posts then you though[/QUOTE]

damn you john you nearly have 100 more than me you post whore :p

I think he mentioned in the first post that the hand controller had shit itself.

[QUOTE=astralex;552826]I think he mentioned in the first post that the hand controller had shit itself.[/QUOTE]

i managed to get the controller to work again.. VERY loose connection.

[QUOTE=MattuZ;552814]go to your hand controller and set it to show knock, afm voltage and possibly boost?

then if it happens and you see your engine light press the up arrow to show your max values and you will be able to work out which one is out of range and causing the light

like i said same thing happened to me last week and it was the afm[/QUOTE]

yeh will do.

thanks for the info guys. i'll post up when i find out the problem

Just an update.. I've driven the car a few times now since the incident on sunday, and nothing has happened. All seems to be running fine. Now that I have my hand controller working again, I thought I'd set it up to do what matt said above. I also found a handy site for power fc FAQs, and found this:

If the AIRFLOW WARN is set to ON the engine light will flash when the airflow value gets near its ceiling limit of 5 volts.
If the INJECTOR WARN is set to ON the engine light will flash when the injector duty values gets to 98%
If the KNOCK wARNING is set to ON the engine light will flash when the knock level exceeds 60

So I thought hmm alright, let's go check to see what's turned on. And I found that the only warning that's turned on, is knock, meaning it would of had to exceed 60...

The highest I've ever seen it is at 6. It's normally around the 2 mark when cruising. So what would of caused it to suddenly hit the 60 mark? And then have no problems since. If of course that's what caused it? Which by what I'm reading, it had to be right?

Sean will have set the PFC to flash the Check engine light at 30.....Not 60 (60 is for nissan RB motors)....A knock spike of >35 is clearly audible inside the car & IS real knock (i.e doing damage).

The Knock index will spike as you come on boost but anything under 30 is relatively normal.

Set the handset to show INJ %, boost, knock & maf voltage (4 monitor).....then press the up arrow so there are black boxes down the right hand side of the display...drive the car from 1500 rpm to 6000 in third at wide open throttle and report back here with the MAX knock number indicated by the number in the right hand column.

1-2 knock is normal background engine noise.

Cheers for the info. Yeah the check engine light came on while I was cruising at around 60km/h, barely accelerating so not on boost. I then lost all acceleration power, then it kicked back in. Probably the best way I can describe it. I didn't here any noise either..

Thanks Ross, I'll do that tomorrow and let you know how it goes.

[QUOTE=RamWRC;553547]Cheers for the info. Yeah the check engine light came on while I was cruising at around 60km/h, barely accelerating so not on boost. I then lost all acceleration power, then it kicked back in. Probably the best way I can describe it. I didn't here any noise either..

Thanks Ross, I'll do that tomorrow and let you know how it goes.[/QUOTE]

Won't be knock then....Do you have an Alarm & a turbo timer?

Can you arm the alarm whilst the turbo timer is still running the engine?

Yes I do have both.. and yeah I can.

Then you'll have some diodes in the wiring harness from the ignition switch that leads along the underside of the steering column.....Keep this in mind if it ever stops on you..... Sometimes the solder job on the diodes becomes a "dry" solder joint & becomes unreliable, leading to intermittent cut outs or melted insulation/shorts.

Could be your automatic gearbox, or the sensors or the ECU for it playing up.