Compression test isn't costing me anything so might aswell do it

well compression tested the engine today

cyls 1 3 and 4 threw 120psi
cyl 2 threw 70psi

did a wet test on that cyl and it came upto 85-90psi.

i guess a low km engine swap is in order :| not really the xmas present i wanted!!

That or valves burnt or cylinder head gasket possibly.

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Race Torque Dyno 399 NM, 248Kw @ 20PSI

Straight roads are for fast cars, twisty roads are for fast drivers. I have or am neither.

http://tttmsp.smugmug.com/

Not sure but just drove back to adelaide from Victoria and its now a slug!

Looking at another ej20 turbs tonight with 130,000km on it, or so they say.

Is it really worth forking out for a 'low km' motor, before pulling apart and checking valves? :/ Where abouts in Adelaide is this motor you're looking at?

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Air is for pussies.

Well the engine I'm looking at is a private seller, complete with turbo, dump, coilpack, clutch, everything basically, all for $600 providing its got good compression when I go check

Even if it is the valves I'm pretty sure I wouldn't be able to fix the problem for less then what I'll be paying for another engine

From my limited experience, low compression could be
piston rings (10% chance), head gasket (10%) but this would have other symptoms like coolant loss, burnt out valve (80%).
I support astralex above but what you do depends on want's available and the labor costs you pay.

The unichip
has limited application and I doubt it is worth buying new nowadays but keep as you already have it, ok for the mild level of mods you have.

Hey guys

im dead certain its a burnt valve. have sat down with the misses and decided on the following.

Subi is off the road as of last night
Going to do a full rebuild which consists of

Wiseco forged pistons with manley rods
Heads will be full recon
gt3076r turbo or possibly a td varient (still not sure)
660cc sard injectors (already got a walbro pump to keep up)
Unichip will be ripped out and replaced with a haltech of some kind

theres probably a heap of stuff i've missed but at this stage i think doing a forged rebuild is my best option as i dont know how a 'second hand engine' has been treated.

been down the path of doing a standard recondition and learnt from a costly exercise so this time round its all out or nothing!

Add to that ARP Head studs, ARP case bolts, new oil pump, Cams, ACL big end & main bearings, Torque plate bore & hone, balancing of the rotating assembly.....Don't forget a decent fuel pump too.

Get yourself a wide-band O2 setup & display (and learn how to read it) to prevent it all happening again to your new donk.

P.s you won't need injectors up to around 300hp at the hubs.

The following is a breakdown of the costing of my build (i was in the Auto industry at the time):

Engine Rebuild Costing
Ej207 My00 Subaru STi

ARP Case Bolts (Main Bolts) $349.99

Wiseco Forged Pistons (93.00 mm) $499

Subaru Genuine Oil Pump WRX STi $149.99

ARP Head studs Subaru WRX 2.0L $189.99

ACL Bearings Subaru WRX 2.0L EJ207 $149.99

Manley H-Beam Rods Subaru WRX EJ207 2.0L $329.99

Subaru OEM Water Pump EJ20 EJ207 WRX $80.00

Brian Crower 272/272 Cams Subaru WRX EJ207 $601.25
Brian Crower Single Valvesprings WRX EJ207 $217.38
(cams & springs for costing only - Spec/brand will change)

Sub-Total: $2,618.56 USD ($2717.10 Aud)


Machining/Assembly Costing

Crank case / bottom end

 Strip & Acid bath crankcase
 Torque plate bore,deck & hone crankcase to 93.00mm
 Custom clearance bores to pistons (t/s Wiseco Forged)
 Line hone crankcase
 Machine & install engine internals as supplied by owner
 Set all bearing clearances as per manufacturers specifications
 Balance rotating assembly
 Assemble short motor

Cost $900 Aud

Head Rebuilds

 Disassemble & acid bath heads
 Crack test & repair where/if required
 Deck heads/ensure flatness, tunnel hone cam journals
 Replace valve seats, valves & guides
 New valve springs & retainers (up to 1mm o/s)
 Fit Camshafts as supplied by owner
 Reset cam lash as per Subaru Specification (solid shims)


Cost (to do both heads) = $1000

No Cost items:

Core for rebuilding Ej207 crankcase & crankshaft
Labour: Engine removal & re-installation (inc. head fitment)
Powder coat inlet manifold (donated)
Oem Gasket set (have already)
Fidanza flywheel (have already)


Total cost of rebuild: $4617.10 + consumables

Have a read of these (some pics are missing now but all the info is there):

http://www.perth-wrx.com/vb/mechanic...ine-build.html

http://www.perth-wrx.com/vb/mechanic...ine-build.html

Look at www.realstreetperformance.com as a source of your parts - use "PERTHWRX" as the discount code to get 10% off.... Enjoy

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[CENTER][SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][/CENTER]
[CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Built Ej207: Semi-closed RA Cases - Wiseco Forgies - Manley rods - BC 272 cams - GDA Heads - billet f/whl - Vi-pec - WbO2 - 800cc Yellow tops - TD05-20G - 409Hp ath @ 1.75bar on E85[/COLOR][/CENTER]

Fuck wasting time with the Haltech, get Brett at Graham West to work wonders with a ViPec for you.

EDIT: Ross' list is a brilliant list and structure to go by, but from memory of my build, as they were almost side by side, is the little kicker of Ross working in the industry at the time, and you did everything yourself too if I remember?

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Air is for pussies.