Pre build Block Preparation
 

Hey Guys,

Following on from my intro thread [URL]http://www.perth-wrx.com/vb/introductions/59288-pommie-newbie-moving-perth.html[/URL]) it's now time to start my big power build.

I've decided to go the Closed Deck 2.2L Stroker route. It looks like I've managed to source a block (subject to being able to organise shipping it from Victoria). However as I'm new to Australia and Perth I don't know who to use for preparing the engine block.

As it's a 2.0L Closed Deck Block it needs to have a bit of work doing to it before I can even contemplate building it. It will need the usual bore and plateau hone as well as a block to head surface skim but the major thing is the conversion from centre thrust to rear thrust crank. It will also need a 14mm head stud conversion too.

Can anyone recommend somewhere that will be able to do this and to a high standard as I'm aiming for around 450KW / 600bhp.

Cheers

Daz

77 views and no comments :(

Here's a couple of my previous builds back in the UK. But there I knew where to go for the machining work, here I don't hence the question. Any way first up a 2.1 stroker.
Cosworth Rods, Roger Clark Motorsport /Omega Stroker pistons.

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/stroker/1.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/stroker/2.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/stroker/4.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/stroker/5.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/stroker/6.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/stroker/7.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/stroker/8.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/stroker/9.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/stroker/10.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/stroker/11.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/stroker/12.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/stroker/13.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/stroker/14.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/stroker/15.jpg[/img]

Neil Herbit at the engine exchange is a machinest & engine builder. He runs a hi powered Wrx. There is many members on her have has motors built or machine work done by him. He specialises in this type of machine work and is set up to re oil phase Subaru cranks.

Awesome thanks. :)

Here's the 2.5 I did with the front mounted GT35R turbo.

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/1.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/2.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/3.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/4.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/5.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/6.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/7.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/8.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/9.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/10.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/11.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/12.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/13.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/14.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/15.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/16.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/17.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/18.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/19.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/19a.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/19b.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/19c.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/20.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/21.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/22.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/23.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/24.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/25.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/26.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/27.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/28.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/29.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/28.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/29.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/30.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/31.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/32.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/33.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/34.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/35.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/36.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/37.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/38.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/39.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/40.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/41.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/42.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/43.jpg[/img]

This is how the car looked when finished.

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/44.jpg[/img]

This is a link to the feature I had as the cover car of Japanese Performance Magazine.
[url=http://www.scoob.co.uk/jpfeature.htm]Japanese Performance Article[/url]

[IMG]http://scontent-b.cdninstagram.com/hphotos-xpa1/t51.2885-15/10362230_1418654928409459_894422495_a.jpg[/IMG]

You carry out your own tuning don't you ? I think I have met you last year

I've just moved here from the UK so unless it was there I doubt it :)

I dont have anything to add about where to go to build a high HP ej. But i will be looking at building something eventually and am curious as to what those round dowl looking things are? And why you would go with that instead of a full closed deck setup that i have seen from deshelle and other on their high hp builds?

Does it provide similar strength without restriciting coolant as much?

[img]http://www.scoob.co.uk/257build/1.jpg[/img]

You've answered your own question pretty much.
The closed deck inserts weren't available in the UK when I built this. It's only recently they've started to do them. The inserts provide the strength where it's needed without restricting coolant flow.

They were used by few well known tuners in the UK to good effect in their 800+Bhp race cars. The dowels were easier to do, cheaper and did the same job. The block I built is 6 years old now and is still going strong at just under 600bhp. I would probably do another but I really want to do the 2.1. As didnt get to finish the one in the first set of pics due to moving here.

Thanks for getting back to me. You can build my ej257 for me oneday if you feel like it haha.

You're not the first here to ask me that :D

Speak to ASG, MMS and maybe give PROTOTYPE a PM hes built 1 or 2 2.2 big horsepower dak daks and has another unicorn in the pipline.

You might be better off using a semi closed STI block if you want to go to rear thrust. If you really want the closed deck then laser us some inserts & get them placed in or add more dowels like you have done previously.

I can't remember what I was quoted, but I have a figure of around $1400 to convert the CD block to rear thrust.

Also, I would stay away from the 14mm head studs, just get some aged hardened ARP's. Again it's one of those expensive pain in the arse jobs that costs a decent amount of money. If you really want the 14mm I can point you in the right direction.

As for the basic stuff, line boring, torque plate honing etc, give Danny a call at [URL="http://http://www.truelocal.com.au/business/performance-modifications/osborne-park"]Performance Mods[/URL]. They have done a fair few big hp Subaru builds of 400kw
++.

I've had the rear thrust conversion done before but that was in the UK it didn't cost anything like that. It would actually be cheaper buying a billet crank which are dual thrust if that's the case.

I can get the studs no problem its the machining work I'm struggling with at the mo.

I've also got another option entirely at the moment but that involves selling my current car and buying one that's 90% done just needs a few niggles sorting out which I can do. But unless I sell my current car it won't happen.

So plan B is either strip my current block which is semi closed or use a CDB. I know how strong the CDB's are and what you can throw at a properly built one so that's my preferred option if mine doesn't sell.

Yeah, I went the Manley with the dual thrust option, as it made more sense. I can't for the life of me remember who quoted me that price though as it was a few years ago now. If you talk to Danny at performance mods, he won't even do the conversion as its too much stuffing around apparently? Maybe he doesn't have the correct tooling or machines?

I can't remember what I paid for the machining for the 14mm studs, but when you factor in the cost of the studs + machining the block & heads, it makes more sense to get the aged hardened ARP ones. Unless your planning on 40+ pounds of boost into it. My personal opinion is the ARP's will get the same result at a cheaper price.

I'll get the guys info who did my studs in the block.

One thing you have to keep in mind, is that Perth is very small in comparison to the UK, so the necessity to complete some of these more intricate tasks is not really here, hence the higher pricing as everything takes longer, due to the experience level & how many times they have completed the task before.

I'm just here for the eye candy. Some very nice kit there. Cheers for sharing.

I almost forgot. You could also try Tony from knight engines in South Australia. Again, has completed lots of work on high HP suby's & is a easy guy to talk too.

[url=http://www.truelocal.com.au/business/performance-modifications/osborne-park]Performance Modifications, Osborne Park Perth - Mechanic[/url]

Buy Tino's car!

[QUOTE=RUSSGT;817499]Buy Tino's car![/QUOTE]

Didn't Tino actually sell it a while back & its now being resold by the new owner.?

Those were the latest reports anyway. ;)

[QUOTE=Slap Dash;817502]Didn't Tino actually sell it a while back & its now being resold by the new owner.?

Those were the latest reports anyway. ;)[/QUOTE]

Nope... However there maybe another super car headed to his stable... Murci...

I would go closed deck but just convert the crank to centre thrust not the block, much cheaper.

I also agree re 14mm studs(hassle), just get the top of the range ARP studs, so much easier and just as good.

I would go to Danny at Performance Mods or Niel for block prep. If u know what your doing most of it is in the prep, clearances, deck height of piston, compression ratio, actually degreeing the cams in correctly etc etc.

Just my thoughts after building a few EJ20 that have held together under some extreme conditions.

[QUOTE=seagull;817409]Neil Herbit at the engine exchange is a machinest & engine builder. He runs a hi powered Wrx. There is many members on her have has motors built or machine work done by him. He specialises in this type of machine work and is set up to re oil phase Subaru cranks.[/QUOTE]

Neil did all of my machining for my build too.