any info you might find will be stock vs stock, or no info about Foresters
Bram's isn't stock

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There's a hoon in every Typhoon

When a single post has been linked like that, the parent thread is always accessible from the top right hand side.
In the post that Nick has linked, it lists Betty Blue as the parent thread.

Not picking on you, just not every one notices it.

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2015 Forester XT Premium
2020 VW Tiguan Allspace
teejay: If I wanted a comeback Id wank in front of a fan

Fast driver > fast car, just go for it!

Go gear have been helpful to me in the past so definitely worth a call. I also know of LF performance, Heath Ledger's dad runs it (so I've heard) and their work is top class. They can do fabrication work ie roll cage.

A Forester might have slightly higher centre of gravity due to chassis compared to wrx, but no matter, just keep the heavy shit mounted as low as practically possible.

Seat time on track is worth more than a little power/CoG. Just do it


using the Perth-WRX mobile app

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Slow is smooth and smooth is fast.

Go to Go Gear, talk to Ivan.

He can answer pretty much all your questions and explain the reasons and methods for the best compliant and safe setup.
Ivan is CAMS scrutineer. You will get a varying range of answers from the internet.

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[COLOR=RoyalBlue][B][I]Titanium Reinforced[/I][/B]
MY00 Impreza WRX | MY11 Liberty GT Premium[/COLOR]

Having going from being in an STI wagon then to an STI sedan. There is a big difference in handling, advantage sedan. If you are going to spend the money on a wield in cage, best to do a sedan which can then continue to take you further into Motorsport(targa/waneroo) if you desire. Resale will be better also.

well. seats and mounts have been purchesed. subaru specific base plates purchased. omp 6 pt harness purchased.

Went to Go Gear as suggested by others. Picked up a set of OMP RS-PT seats. I really had my heart set on the style of the OMP WRC. But unfortuantly, the standard size is too tight for my child bearing hips, and the XL is way too big for me. And they dont make the WRC in an inbetween size. So i settled on a pair of the RS-PTs. these are similar price, but have a smallish wrap around head encapsulation protector. Where-as the WRCs dont. But the WRCs do have the upgrade fabric, which these dont. And to get the HTEs, which do have the upgrade fabric, was like another 200 each side. I settled on the RS-PTs as they should do the trick, and fitted me best.

I picked up a set Kyouu Subaru dspecific bases in canning vale the other day. (Wanted the Planted brand, but shipping from the states quoted at like 300USD. So, not getting them...)

I also got a 6pt OMP harness, and bolts/mounting plates etc. But I will need a harness bar made to make use of them.

I asked about using a fixed back in a cage-less car. And that should be fine. I also asked about using the new seats with a standard seat belt tomorrow (as i wont have time to get a bar made) And that should be OK.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

test fitted the seats. the head protection means my stock seatbelts need to go in order to fit them. the upper seatbelt connection interferes with the head protector in my preferred seating position. And the deep base means the buckle is not in an ideal position. Too dangerous in my opinion to run these buckets without a harness. So im going to be running my STi seats until i can have a harness bar made.

Once made, both my JDM GRB/GVB STi Premium all leather seats will be forsale. They have already been modified to mount to GC/GD/SF/SG etc, and will not fit GR anymore. The drivers is all electric, passenger is manual. Both have seat heaters in. And they both have the SRS equipment inside. Even have a set of older model seat heater switchs aswell. (interested buyers welcome to come and inspect)

On the forester body, it looks like getting a harness bar will be a fairly straight forward affair. The bar will go across from one rear strut tower to the other. There is already solid mounting points in the front face of the rear strut tower which are meant for the rear seat upper mounts. And these will be strong enough to connect the bar to.

I reckon I could easily weld up my own bar. But in the interest of safety, this will be made by a proffesional. Brad Stacey was recommended by Go Gear. I might also talk to Russ Kap aswell, as im pretty sure he made a harness bar and he welds like deamon.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

You don't fuck around bra.

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Bye bye betty blue. Hello F6.

Quick question about harness and fixed back seat mounting points for those in the know. Ive had a read of the CAMS guide, but couldnt find specific info. Ill try and explain it as best as i can.

When installing a 6pt harness to a Subaru, is it acceptable to use the bolt hole for the front seat, inner rear leg to secure the lap-sash? I am using subaru specific seat subframes that utilise all 4 of the original seats bolt holes. The inner lapsash (closest to transmission tunnel) lines up perfectly with the front seat subframe inner rear mount point. The harnsess came supplied with 7/16 unf eyebolts. It appears that most of the Subaru seatbelt and somr of the seat mounts are also 7/16 unf, so I am wondering if it is possible to simply secure the lapsash AND inner rear leg of the seat subframe with the one harness eyebolt?

The CAMS guide says NOT to use mount points for a safety cage as mount points for a safety harness. But it doesnt say not to use mount points for the same seat as the harness.


This pic is showing the rear inner leg of the front passenger seat, using the eyebolt to secure it and the inner lapsash. Drivers side will be the exact same, only mirror image.





The rest of the harness mounts I should be OK with. But here is a run down so far.

The outer lapsah lines up perfectly with the bolt hole that secures the OE seatbelt reel/pretensioner. And it too uses a 7/16 unf hole. So I was going to use that for the outer lapsah mounting with the supplied eyebolt. And totoally remove the OE seatbelts. *They clash with the wrap around head protection in my new seats. So it is impossible to use them with the seats.*

The crotch straps I have put metal base plates on the underside of the car, and threaded the eyebolts into. There is a reinforcing ridge in the floor of the car directly below the seat, and I have put the crotch strap base plates on either side of the reinforcing ridge directly below the seat opening. This seams like a strong point. And lines up near perfectly with the seat position.

The shoulder straps will need a harness bar built across the rear stru towers to get the ideal angle. Still working on this one.

Thankyou.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

One final question. What is the ideal way of tackiling the SRS system? Is it better to simply put resistors in the seat airbags and seatbelt pretensioners wiring. And try and keep the steering wheel (and passenger dash) airbag in operation. Or is it preffered to totoally disable the SRS system alltogether?

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Doing it for all the wagons out there