Take it to MMS and ask them to get it out for you....

Mcclacker

Is there an offer of assistance to get this out for a few beers maybe if you have done it before .......?

Dont worry if not, otherwise I will probably try MMS like Steve suggested. I am sure they would have done heaps before. Would rather try getting this out without having to ruin the the threads and retapping it.

Had the same issues with mine.

Drilled and re-tapped, then the same thing happened again.

Need to get Peter Whitefoot on the job.



using the Perth-WRX mobile app

[QUOTE=Brett Allan;848131]Had the same issues with mine.

Drilled and re-tapped, then the same thing happened again.

Need to get Peter Whitefoot on the job.



using the Perth-WRX mobile app[/QUOTE]


If you have to re-tap the threads then you may aswell look at doing a 2 piece bleeder like this in the picture. The actual bit you undo to drain fluid is screwed into the adapter. The adapter then screws into the caliper. That way any wear and tear and any siezing that happens, happens in the adapter, which you can then simply unscrew and throw away and get a new one. Its a better idea in my opinion, better than chewing up the actual caliper every time you have to bleed brakes. Or galling up the threads, or snapping the head off the bleeder.

They can also come in better metals than brass, like zinc plated steel / stainles steel etc.

My Willwoods are setup like that, and i quite like it. It seams to work well.


[IMG]https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSgWiWEkDIWfNojbJt_xlLp4InRCC86uRVCxfNGBIJF9UTKS4Gn[/IMG]

Stainless steel bleed screws are available.

I have put them into Brembo calipers before as preventive maintenance.

[QUOTE=Bram;848134]If you have to re-tap the threads then you may aswell look at doing a 2 piece bleeder like this in the picture. The actual bit you undo to drain fluid is screwed into the adapter. The adapter then screws into the caliper. That way any wear and tear and any siezing that happens, happens in the adapter, which you can then simply unscrew and throw away and get a new one. Its a better idea in my opinion, better than chewing up the actual caliper every time you have to bleed brakes. Or galling up the threads, or snapping the head off the bleeder.

They can also come in better metals than brass, like zinc plated steel / stainles steel etc.

My Willwoods are setup like that, and i quite like it. It seams to work well.



[IMG]https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSgWiWEkDIWfNojbJt_xlLp4InRCC86uRVCxfNGBIJF9UTKS4Gn[/IMG][/QUOTE]
We use something similar at work, kerb konus inserts which are far better than helicoils if material thickness allows.

[QUOTE=phoenix;848112]Mcclacker

Is there an offer of assistance to get this out for a few beers maybe if you have done it before .......?

Dont worry if not, otherwise I will probably try MMS like Steve suggested. I am sure they would have done heaps before. Would rather try getting this out without having to ruin the the threads and retapping it.[/QUOTE] never removed a broken bleed nipple but can't see it to be different than any other snapped bolt. As others have suggested I'd soak it first with a good penetrating fluid and it will need to be off the car. Busy today getting the car ready for QTW scrutiny and Saturday is also out with QTW stuff. If you want speed STECHNIC or maximum are a good call.
Another point to note going straight to drilling taping is not necessary, if the bolt is stuck fast a spark eroder will get it out without damaging the thread. If you can wait until Monday I'll get contact details from work.

Cheers for all the feedback from everyone.

Mcclacker, I am in no rush to get this done and need to get the caliper off the car first, no big deal just need to get the time to do it, let me know and I can go from there, thanks.