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LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#11
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yeah thought about that but we have a huge modular type seating so couldnt fit it in the middle. |
#12
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ok new idea is if i get them to remove a part of that wall where the arrow is pointing and put shelves and a tinted glass door there for all the units amps etc. and the living side of that wall and lcd is going there so all the cables can go in that space as well.
then all the cables can go right into the roof out of sight no plates on the wall at all. and run the conduit into the roof part of that cuboard and wont be able to see it. |
#13
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put a false wall there and paint it or add a feature unit with a false back on it. All the nasty wiring gets done from here and then run as little as wiring as you need from here. we have done false walls/cupboards many times for customers.
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#185 |
#14
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yeah i not suer what to do now they said there may be pipes running in that triangle section.. which rules a false wall out hey ?
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#15
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I'd recommend you run DVI cable to the projector and possibly also component video if your amp can't support all the input switching you want. But stay away from the wall plug idea, the pin outs on dvi wall plugs would suck balls, and you're just introducing more signal loss at each join in the link. Just be prepared for the cost of the DVI cable... because its gonna be in the order of $20+ a metre to get the proper shielded one that can run the distance without significant signal loss.
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#16
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yeah thats ok no point skimping on the cable if going to all that trouble
but where do u buy a 5metre + dvi cable |
#17
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Does your projector have DVI cable tho? I would think most don't. We used to use Telstra conduit for running cables because it is bigger than the electrical conduit.
You can buy multicore coax cable which will allow you to run component video + composit video (4 cables total). I can find the shop name I used to buy from. If you want to run your computer through the projector as well, then you'll need an additional 5 coax cables. Id just run the cables through the ceiling / floor and out the wall and terminate the end of the cables rather than trying to terminate to a wall box. You don't lose very much signal using wall plates (about 1db per connection) but it's just more fiddlier trying to terminate them to a wall box (or two) If that triangular duct goes to another wall space upstairs it will probably have plumbing and electrical pipes, but you always specify on your plans where you want the pipework. Just speak to the tradies on site. Depending on your amp too, and upgrading down the track etc, you might want to wire two pairs of rear speakers for 7.1 channel. Even if you just run the cable, you can always install flush mount rears later (if you have the roof space) If you don't have roof space between the slab, then you can get wooden speaker boxes that are put into the slab before it's poured.
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delonixradar.com.au - use coupon code "PWRX" for large discount on all HID kits |
#18
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ok amps and projector i havnt got yet no point buying them until house is built one becuase im wasting the warranty time and also they get out dated and i dont know what cables im running ill buy them once i have a plan set in and house is just about finished. coax is RG6 which will be used for all my tv points and cameras etc etc.
was thinking of running clipsal Star serve system. as long as conduit is large enough for a plug biggest plug i could think would be a dvi one. to run free through it would be fine. |
#19
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U could always chase the wires into the wall then plaster over them.. is a fair bit of work but the cables would be hidden permantely.
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I'm a jockey kunts... |
#20
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yeah thats it.. doesnt matter what bricks i cut or anythign becuase it will be done before they plaster so everything will be covered but thats why i gotta plan ahead lol
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Tags |
ideas, projector, roof, room, theatre, wiring |
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