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#1
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How do I seal a water connection
Just bought myelf a fancy new fridge with one of those water chiller / ice makers.
It currently has nothing but beer in it, but I digress. It came with the wrong connection for the water to the tap my builder installed. The instructions say there are two different types and the one I didn't get looks the right size. Took it back to where I bought it and they told me to just go to bunnings and get a thread reducer. I was a bit pissed considering I'd spent 3k there yesterday, especially since the manual showed it 'might' come with the correct piece. But for a $1.80 connection 500m down the road, I didn't bother kicking up a stink. Anyway, enough of the cool story bro.... I bought a reducer, however no matter how tight I do it up, it leaks water out the top. I used some thread tape and it still leaked. Very slow leak, but a leak is a leak and on wooden floors cannot be ignore. I used even more tape again to the point where it was a struggle to get the connection on at all. I did it up as tight as I possible could without breaking something and sure enough an hour later there was a few more drops of water on the floor. What is the next step? I was thinking of putting a thick layer of silicone on the thread befre doing it up, then leaving it 48hrs to dry before turning the tap on.
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Twin scroll Pig Bi-Squeeling |
#2
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Did the thread tape seal nice? Just a suggestion, try threading the tape in the other direction, so when you turn it , it doesnt loosen the thread tape but pull the thread tape tight.
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#3
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Hmm, I'd never though of that being an issue. I'll give it a go now.
Edit : Tried it, didn't work. It's leaking out of both areas as well. Between tap and reducer and from reducer to connection. I'm giving up for the night. Going to look at different reducers tommorow. This one looks like brass or copper. The rest of the connections in the house are stainless or chrome. Would that make a difference?
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Twin scroll Pig Bi-Squeeling Last edited by meatbag; 12-10-2011 at 09:05 PM. |
#4
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Go back to the store and tell them they will be contacting the supplier, and they will be supplying you the correct part or you will be conducting a protest outside their store with a heap of dak dak mates until they do...???
Seriously, if I spend that amount, I wouldn't leave the store until they got me that part. Don't swear at them just stand there and argue. If you can argue without using logic, it will annoy the crap out of them and will try to do anything to get rid of you. |
#5
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The Chrome fittings maybe chromed brass anyway. Usually it doesn't matter mixing these types of fittings, (Brass gyrolock fittings on stainless tube is a totally different matter) The thread type is more important, BSP, NPT etc
Could a fiber washer fit into the female end of the fittings? or did you use enough tread tape, a couple of wraps should do, the done up tight with a suitable shifter, and make sure the thread tape goes on the right way like Mao said. Holding the male end facing you the tape needs to go on clockwise.
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#6
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Quote:
Have you got any photos of what you are trying to achieve? Also maybe try Reece or tradelink instead of Bunnings. Brendon
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Losing is worse than death. You have to live with losing.... |
#7
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Quote:
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#8
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I'd say assuming you're using plastic fittings, use brass+PTFE tape
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#9
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Most of the fittings I have seen for fridges usually have a rubber washer in the bottom (same as washing machine) reducer would need to have this.
Couplers in Malaga are pretty good and alot more knowledgable than Bunnings staff, also Galvin's plumbing supplies. Not common for every appliance to fit straight out of the box, we generally leave install to our plumber, sometimes easier/cheaper to change the tap on the wall than drive around for a day looking for a "special" reducer. |
#10
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^^^^ What he said ...
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connection, seal, water |
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