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#1
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New ECU install, car won't start - any ideas?
I realise this isn't a Subaru but I know there are several very knowledgeable people on here when it comes to all things ECU's and seeing as the principles are the same across all ECU's I was hoping someone may have some ideas as to why it won't start.
The car is a Datsun 1200 ute, ECU is a Haltech Platinum Sport 2000. Injectors and Coilpacks are driven by the ECU and test light show correct pulses across each, 3 Bar map sensor installed and working, coolant and air-temp sensors installed and working, TPS installed and working. Crank and cam position signals are obtained by a Haltech S3 hall effect sensor which has been installed into the distributor and magnets have been placed on an aluminium disc which the sensor reads for home and trigger signals. Timing light shows a constant value which changes as per the software setting so I'm assuming this is setup correctly. Basically it runs on Aerostart but not by itself so I'm guessing either something to do with the injectors or perhaps timing. The injectors spray fuel ok, verified by removing and cranking the engine. Everything has been checked and double checked so I'm guessing it's probably something that has been overlooked. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
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#2
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Sorry for off topic, but if said ute is orange and sporting an SR20DET, you best be posting pics
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#3
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No it's not but I wish it did have an SR20DET, would be a shitload easier dropping in a motor that is already setup with fuel injection and ecu controlled ignition that having to do it to one that came out with a carby and distributor
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#5
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Yep. With the Haltech Sport 2000 both the injectors and coilpacks are wired from cylinder 1 onwards and then in the software you tell it the correct firing order and it takes care of the rest.
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#7
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It's wired for sequential firing mode and it is firing on the correct stroke.
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#8
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I'm not familiar with the Haltech, but do you know if it gives you a screen shot of the sync and reference signals? I know the motec does this and it helps to show how close your sync and ref signal falling edges are to each other.
I have had issues with the falling edge of the sync signal being too close to a falling edge of the reference signal. So basically the tooth on the cam lined up with a tooth on the crank. It would synchronise on cranking (<600 rpm) and provide fuel/spark but as soon as the engine went faster the signals would overlap and it lost which tooth was the reference to TDC and die. It might be worth changing your sync signal to rising edge, leave the other as falling edge and adjust your crip (In motec terminology) to see if that makes any difference.
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car, ecu, ideas, install, start |
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