Knock sensor - 22 CEL - Cost?
 

Hi !

I have a MY00 and have recently had an 22 CEL code coming up every now and then. From what I have read this is a knock sensor code.
Before this code started appearing the car was also stalling and idling very low - sub 500rpm)

My car has some basic mods - unichip-3" turbo back exhaust- vf23/4-PWR TMIC.

I used to get the car tuned by Brett at PSi but that cant happen anymore, so I took the car to Tim Slacko. He proceeded to retune the car and tell me how much brett had stuffed up the configuration of the unichip and charged me about $400 and also replaced the leads. This fixed the idle problem somewhat, it still is to low and lumpy.

Then the error code started coming up, so I took it back. He couldn't fix, so now I am wondering is it as simple as replacing the knock sensor?

ATM car drives fine when the Check engine light isnt on, but when it comes on which is now most of the time the car will not rev smoothly to redline, it splutters at about 6k-7k.
I have tried clearing the codes, always comes back as a 22 CEL.

Any help would be great

Thanks
Jamie

I just bought a knock sensor for my GT on monday. It wont be the exact same part but Id image the price to be the same. mine was $142.50

Its easy to replace. All you need is a 12mm socket and the sensor is located just under the throttle body and a little to the right. You'll want to remove the TMIC or FMIC piping to get at it easy.

replace the knock sensor....easy job, if you still getting CEL 22 after that, the tune is at fault

Make sure to reset the ECU after the knock sensor is replaced.

Cheers

I just put mine in a couple hours ago now. My old one had a nice big crack running through the outer casing and was making it overly sensitive. Because of that, I was getting up to 7 degree of ignition retard coming onto boost. Fucking sucked.

But now, new knock sensor and ECU reset, I dont get any more ignition retard anymore normally. It went up to 1 degree of retard when I was giving it an extended boost going through all the gears a few times and the intake temps went above 35C.

All good. Im very happy and my lost power has been restored.

jus got my knock sensor the other day ludas... see how it goes.. fingers crossed

was ur part no. *SU-2206SS031?

[QUOTE=Autorex]Hi !

...and charged me about $400 and also replaced the leads. This fixed the idle problem somewhat, it still is to low and lumpy.

Then the error code started coming up, so I took it back. He couldn't fix, so now I am wondering is it as simple as replacing the knock sensor?

Jamie[/QUOTE]

A good lesson as to why it's best to use workshops who specialise in Subarus....to charge handsomely then to just throw the hands in the air when there's a problem isn't good enough IMO....

[QUOTE=Mister Two]I just put mine in a couple hours ago now. My old one had a nice big crack running through the outer casing and was making it overly sensitive. Because of that, I was getting up to 7 degree of ignition retard coming onto boost. Fucking sucked.

But now, new knock sensor and ECU reset, I dont get any more ignition retard anymore normally. It went up to 1 degree of retard when I was giving it an extended boost going through all the gears a few times and the intake temps went above 35C.

All good. Im very happy and my lost power has been restored.[/QUOTE]

7 degress retard? it should have been almost overboosting with that

How did you measure seven degrees of retard or is that more a figure of speech?

[QUOTE=Intra]How did you measure seven degrees of retard or is that more a figure of speech?[/QUOTE]

I have a Subaru ECU data scanner attached to my select monitor port under the dash. Give me up to 4 readouts and peakhold in realtime.

Check it out...

[url]http://www.ecudatascan.com/[/url]

Its made by a guy on RSLC. Only $250 and it replaces a whole bunch of gauges. The new model does up to 8 readouts.

[QUOTE=nauli]A good lesson as to why it's best to use workshops who specialise in Subarus....to charge handsomely then to just throw the hands in the air when there's a problem isn't good enough IMO....[/QUOTE]

I agree but Slacko is the only guy who does unichips now i think.

Any recommendations on who to take it to instead?
I used to get it tuned by PSi ... but that cant happen no more :P

I still haven't replaced the knock sensor as the light goes off sometimes. Suppose I should do it before it causes something worse.
Subaru did tell me not to worry about it, it is just the unichip. I find this hard to believe but because I have had the unichip for 7 yrs without a problem.
I did have a check engine light on before when PSi tuned it and they were able to change something in the tune to remove it. This also fixed the idle problem at the time. hmmm .. Something to do with new software for the unichip he said???

Anyway the confusion goes on. serves me right for getting a unichip i guess, and not autronics. Its cost me atleast $1000 in AFM's aswell.

Cheers
Jamie

There should be no confusion. If the ECU is throwing up a CEL that tells you its the Knock Sensor - then it most likely is. Stop driving around prentending it is not and blaming the Unichip or Tim Slacko. :rolleyes:

Dude, if it not that hard to remove the knock sensor, why not just pull it out and have a good look at it to see if its cracked ? Jeez it not that hard. :confused:

Your other option if your not sure its the knock sensor is to go to a workshop like RMS,MMS,ASG and see if they have a spare lying around you can try out. Ring first would be a good idea.

If its costing you money on AFMs' - remove the APS CAI + K&N filter and go back to the standard Airbox with Dry paper filter.

Spend the money on the Knock Sensor and at least cleaning the AFM and get some reliability back or you WILL end up paying $2-6k for a replacement short block engine transplant!!!!

Can I be any clearer ??????

Jamie, just out of curiosity, check what type of engine mounts you have, round ones with no locking plates (oil filled Legacy/Liberty/some Sti) or oblong with lock plates (WRX). I had the round ones break on me and cause all kinds of knock sensor problems.

Your other option if on a budget if to get this PossumLink for $500 odd and ditch the bloody AFM all together:

[url]http://www.rexnet.com.au/forum/index.php?showtopic=77904[/url]

I would be getting a VF34 put in at the same time if going down that path. :)

Best of luck.

[QUOTE=WRXTASY]Your other option if on a budget if to get this PossumLink for $500 odd and ditch the bloody AFM all together.[/QUOTE]

What he said...... :icon_chee

[QUOTE=WRXTASY]There should be no confusion. If the ECU is throwing up a CEL that tells you its the Knock Sensor - then it most likely is. Stop driving around prentending it is not and blaming the Unichip or Tim Slacko. :rolleyes:

Dude, if it not that hard to remove the knock sensor, why not just pull it out and have a good look at it to see if its cracked ? Jeez it not that hard. :confused:

Your other option if your not sure its the knock sensor is to go to a workshop like RMS,MMS,ASG and see if they have a spare lying around you can try out. Ring first would be a good idea.

If its costing you money on AFMs' - remove the APS CAI + K&N filter and go back to the standard Airbox with Dry paper filter.

Spend the money on the Knock Sensor and at least cleaning the AFM and get some reliability back or you WILL end up paying $2-6k for a replacement short block engine transplant!!!!

Can I be any clearer ??????[/QUOTE]

Ahh if its not that hard to remove the sensor you would think Slacko could of done that ... Thats what I paid him for Im not a mechanic.

Either way lesson learned, will go to one of the other shops you suggested and get it sorted out.
Yep I have removed the CAI and K&N now.

Thanks for the info will sort it out ASAP :)

Cheers
Jamie

[QUOTE=WRXTASY]Your other option if on a budget if to get this PossumLink for $500 odd and ditch the bloody AFM all together:

[url]http://www.rexnet.com.au/forum/index.php?showtopic=77904[/url]

I would be getting a VF34 put in at the same time if going down that path. :)

Best of luck.[/QUOTE]

I have the std air intake and filter now so hopefully no more dead AFMs.

Cheers
Jamie

was ure CAI and oil based one?

yep it used to be.. A K&N.
Never oiled it but.

put a new knock sensor in ... codes gone :)

car is idling like shit again now but.

Reset the ECU after you put in a new sensor.