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  #51  
Old 09-10-2016, 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Jacob92 View Post
Wait till ur running with the new set up wow much wow

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I know. Ive been slowly chipping away at the loose ends left on it. Hopefully get everything ironed out before the end of the year.
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  #52  
Old 09-10-2016, 10:36 PM
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Do you recomend a stock location gt3076 over the 20g xtr? I havnt yet purchased the turbo as i was going to do the run in on the vf28.
I will go twist mount later as i was saying to daz.
You could always get a stock location 3071/3076 and then when ready, swap the housings to a t3/4 or v-band and twist it.
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  #53  
Old 10-10-2016, 12:46 AM
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A twist mount 3076 with a 0.82 Exhaust housing is the weapon of choice on a 2.1 Stroker.

A 35R will be a lag fest.
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  #54  
Old 10-10-2016, 08:30 AM
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If you want a 3071 size stock location turbo, i have a Dom 2.5 for sale. Its basically a billet wheel version of the Garrett GT3071R. It uses genuine Garrett CHRA, but has the Blouch billet compressor wheel and housings designed for stock location. Making it kinda equivelent to a stock location GTX3071R. Turbine housing is the 10cm^2 which is about equiv to approx a 0.8 A/R. The compressor inlet is 3" which is the biggest you will ever fit in stock location. And it has the upgrade wastegate actuator, which equate to about 1.4 bar.

You can fit any 30r exhaust housing you want to it at a later date if you want to go twist mount. But the compressor housing you are limited to use the Blouch item as the compressor wheel profile is different to Garrets profile. The comp housing inlet is 3" inlet which is bigger than standard Subaru, but not as big as a standard Garrett conpressor inlet.
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  #55  
Old 10-10-2016, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by dazdavies View Post
A twist mount 3076 with a 0.82 Exhaust housing is the weapon of choice on a 2.1 Stroker.

A 35R will be a lag fest.
Hmm where have i seen that combination before

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  #56  
Old 10-10-2016, 10:19 PM
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Jay,

Check the con rods in your short block and make sure the con rod numbers match correctly.
If you have purchased a factory Subaru 78 or 11mm oil pump make sure it's the factory pump and not a copy. Also make sure it's de burred correctly internally so it does not cavate and foam the oil. There are fake pumps out there in the market.
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  #57  
Old 11-10-2016, 12:22 AM
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The con rods are all ej257 nitto rods.
Ill have to wait to get the motor back from the shop, having heads fitted atm.

Why should the numbers match? Serial numbers or the type
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  #58  
Old 11-10-2016, 12:25 AM
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Only shot i have of conrods. 54116 is the number i think. Will have to rotate and check others.
I got an 11mm sti pump
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  #59  
Old 11-10-2016, 12:27 AM
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Only shot i have of conrods. 541146 is the number i think. Will have to rotate and check others.
I got an 11mm sti pump, but it has subaru japan stamped on it. Did the copies go that far
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  #60  
Old 11-10-2016, 12:59 AM
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Make sure the rods have been assembled properly and that not only the numbers on the caps match the numbers on the rod but also make sure the numbers are both on the same side. This will then ensure the loading is on the correct side of the rods.

Also with the oil pump take the backing plate off and reassemble using loctite on the screws. OEM ones can and do work loose causing a loss of oil pressure.
I go one step further on all the engines I build. I reshim the relief valve I also remove the anodising on it and polish it.















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Last edited by dazdavies; 11-10-2016 at 01:02 AM.
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