Quote:
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Originally Posted by foxey
Pete
You do not want to bridge the two rear channels of the amp into a 2 ohm load as I don't think that amp is capable of driving such a load reliably.
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I agree that you don't want to bridge the 2 channels into 2 ohm....but you do still want to bridge these channels. You just need to make sure that your sub (or subs) have atleast a 4 ohm load.
How:
Pete, you need to check what your sub resistance is. You can get a 2, 4 or 8 ohm single voice coil versions of the JL W3 you bought.
How do you get 4 ohm load from all of these? (which is safe for your amp when 2 channels are bridged)
A) Run 1 x 4 ohm model sub - simplest option. 175 wRMS
B) Run 2 x 8 ohm model subs in parallel - load is 4 ohm, total power still 175 w RMS
C) Run 2 x 2 ohm model subs in series - load is 4 ohm, total power still 175 wRMS
A is deinately the easiest option since you want to be able to quickly remove your sub box. B and C are more expensive (double costs) but would be a bit louder.
+1 for bolting sub in with straps and tek screws. 5 minutes to remove. I was sick of finding my sub on the other side of my boot after spirited driving on off camber corners.