Quote:
Originally Posted by dtrally
It sounds like you covered all bases with the belt change. When the cams spring around they only ever close the valves, there's no chance of damage then, only when re-opening them to set the cams in the right position can they clash with each other. It sounds like you were careful in regard to that.
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That is good to know. It makes infinite sense when I think about it. Good to see someone was thinking when they conceived the little makers.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dtrally
Did you use the upper engine cleaner at the same time? Clean the throttle body and/or change fuel filter?
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No, I did not touch the throttle body or fuel filter (* minus knocking one hose off it by accident - the one without the clamp).
Quote:
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Originally Posted by RoughStilin
fouled plug / dodgy coil pack?
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I really don't like coincidences. It seems likely that something is amiss with the stuff I touched or inadvertently touched. I knocked one of the hoses off the fuel filter (one of the hoses without a clamp). I must have done this when ripping at the radiator hoses. Putting it back on achieved next to zero from what I could tell.
Quote:
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Originally Posted by magic1
pulled the pin?
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On the tensioner: Yes. On fixing the issue: No.
Given the amount of time I have spent on this already I know each nut and bolt (on the stuff I touched) like the back of my hand. I am thinking I might rip out the radiator fans again, drop the alternator and A/C belts, pop the crank pulley, pull the covers and check the timing once again. I know in my own mind it can't be out as I took photos. But who knows now the belt has stretched a bit it could conceivably be off ever so slightly.
The only other thing is that I never drive my car down to the low fuel level. Given it was out of action, when I started the job it was down under 1/4 and I neglected to fill it up. Running it and pissing about I sucked a bit of fuel. I might have sucked a bit of bad fuel/dirt from the bottom of my tank. I guess I could always change out the filter and see if that makes any difference.
With that all said, I really want to reset the
ECU. It will not reset and the "Check Engine" light just stays on when I connect the black/black, green/green connectors. Any ideas why this might be so?
Upon second thoughts, maybe the idle is bad given that the battery was disconnected for a few days. When I disconnect the battery I get a siren for a minute or two. I used the brakes to roll the car back, so I assume that would have reset the
ECU after the power was all drained from the system?