Thread: Yeti sled
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Old 02-01-2016, 11:59 AM
Bram Bram is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amtrapid View Post
Id be fucking the ABS off bud , thats the main difference . Have done at least 10 of these setups when I was at PBMS . None with ABS never had one issue . Done 2 of my old Datto 1600s no issue . S13 Silvia for a mate no issue . Tx3 turbo rally car no issue . Gemini using hydraulic drum brakes No issue .


None had ABS and None used the factory proportioning valve all had Willwood or AP manual adjustable valves.
It is something i want to avoid if possible. I cant say its not the problem until i either solve the problem elsewhere, or remove the ABS and it does or doesnt solve the problem.

But theoreticaly it shouldnt be the ABS. The important stuff is everyrhing between the HB MC and the rear brakes. Everything before the HB MC is effectively just a reservoir for the HB MC. Look at how a master cylinder works. They have an in and an out. The in is just a resivoir, the out is the circuit to the brakes.

I could unscrew and block off the input to the HB MC and just put a simple resivoir in its place, totoally bypassing EVERYTHING before the HB MC and i can guarantee it will still be the same.

The only issue i can see the ABS could have is because it has a individual circuit for each wheel, you need to use a twin/tandem MC, so you keep both sides independant. But, i am using a group n tandem master cylinder designed specifically for cars so they can keep diagonal split dual circuits (part of the group n regulations). So that should be a null issue.
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