The 10.5"s are +24mm offset and the 10"s are +35. Which means they should both have "face 3". Which is the 2nd most
aggressive face they do out of 5 differerent faces in 18 inch. (0, 1, 2,
3, 4)
I wanted rims with as much positive (inwards) offset as possible because i didnt want to too negatively affect things like front scrub radius, which then can have unwanted negatives like torque steer, brake steer and also just makes the entire wheel move forwards and backwards in an arc as it turns due to sticking so far out past the pivot. Which will cause additional clearance isses because it wont just be a wide wheel, it will be a wide wheel that wants to move backwards and forwards as it turns in the arch.
So i want to keep the offset as close as possible to stock as i can for those reasons. But obviously a wide rim like that will never get a stock offset as the inside edges would foul everything from the struts, suspension and even body. So there has to be some compromise. The other thing, i figured if i was out with my meaaurements and caluculations, having a wheel thats too far in is easier to handle than too far out. If its too far in, you can add spacers to bring it out if needed. If its already too far out, then what do you do? I guess i could send the rim off and have some meat machined off the hub mounting face. But thats pretty stupid on something like these rims.
And yeah, my pictures do kinda hide the curve. It can be a bi deceiving because the spokes kinda go flattish, then curve in more steepely. Once they have some meaty 295 runber on them, im sure it will enhance the effect.
https://www.rayswheels.co.jp/product...=en&wheel=ZE40
