Rolling Rear Arches
 

After fitting 18" rims to the car, they sometimes scrape in the rear arches, I was wondering if anyone has rolled their own arches. I was going to do it myself but am afraid of the paintwork cracking. Is it just a case of heating up the paintwork to avoid cracking or is there more to it???

SC :violent1: TER

Depends on the age/condition of the paint.
If you're game (crazy IMO) you can go at it yourself with a rubber mallet [img]http://www.perth-wrx.com/vb/images/smilies/smile.gif[/img]

If you can get your hands on proper tools then thats a better option. Dunno about needing to heat the paint.

Your other alternative is a professional.
Sungard in Myaree or Stuart from Dentcraft are the two names that spring straight to mind. Its not that expensive - compared to stuffing up the paintwork.

Didnt really answer your question, but I'd really suggest getting it done right.

[QUOTE=EVOCLUB 4]After fitting 18" rims to the car, they sometimes scrape in the rear arches, I was wondering if anyone has rolled their own arches. I was going to do it myself but am afraid of the paintwork cracking. Is it just a case of heating up the paintwork to avoid cracking or is there more to it???

SC :violent1: TER[/QUOTE]

Done many rear/front guards rolling, and to stat with a rubber mallet and preheating the paint does take the edge of the lip , the rolling tool is [B]only [/B] used to even it up. Go real slow with the rubber mallet, some more heat and a bit more with the rubber mallet and you are done. You find that the ‘professional’ do it the same way.. only after paying 40 per guard.

Cheers, will give it a go this weekend. Will go real slow and keep a close eye on the paintwork. Should only need to tap the arches about 45 degrees, not fold them flat.....

[QUOTE=EVOCLUB 4]Cheers, will give it a go this weekend. Will go real slow and keep a close eye on the paintwork. Should only need to tap the arches about 45 degrees, not fold them flat.....[/QUOTE]


Correct..! Let us know how it went and if you paint survived the procedure. This might help other here into doing it by them self’s.

Worked a treat. Heated them up quite hot, and tapped a section at a time with a plastic mallet, rubber one was too soft. Didn't get one single paint crack.

This pic was taken before I did the arches, but thought I would post it anyway because I love the rims so much.........

[IMG]http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f327/PERTHSCOOTER/Lowered.jpg[/IMG]

good to hear. I got mine done and now my front guards are rubbing. lol. Cant win hey. It didnt cost me anything to get it professionally done either. they are like it takes 5 mins we will do it for nothing. Im like ok. Joys of being a salesman. Can talk ur way into nething and outta nething.

What profile tyres have you got. I had 45's on mine and they scraped when cornering. I got new tyres which were 40's and never scraped again. That was all it took for mine anyhow.

[QUOTE=Giddyup]What profile tyres have you got. I had 45's on mine and they scraped when cornering. I got new tyres which were 40's and never scraped again. That was all it took for mine anyhow.[/QUOTE]


Got 225/35R18. They still scrape when cornering with 2 adults in the back, but it's not often that the car carries 4 adults.

I experienced this with the wagon when it had 18's. run some camber bolts and dial in 1.5 - 2.0deg neg camber and it'll 'help' clear the guards (with rolled guards). BUT if the car runs a low ride height, it wont stop it touching the top of the guards no matter what.

I disagree. There is plenty of room in the rear guards if you have the right offset / camber.

With your 17's probably yes, i have visible tyres marks from the 18's, bottoming out on the rear guards with a full load. Offset may have something to do with that (correct at that), but i tried EVERYTHING to no avail.

Maybe your car was just too low Jme :)

If I mess the camber won't it effect the handling/tyre wear???
I have just had a wheel alignment done when I got the wheels fitted.
I don't fancy chewing tyres up at $250 a piece.........

I'm running Super lows and Koni ajustables and wanted to stick a set of BBS RE's in. Will I need to flare the gurds to geth 18s on? I'd rather not go through tyres due to rubbing.

my car is sitting at 90 mm ground clearance. I have a constant 160kgs in the boot and even with 3 ppl sitting in the back and they only scrap wen i hit massive potholes (one near woolstores just b4 turn to market street) But then so does my exhaust and bodykit. All i did was roll the rear guards and now had to do front guards. Got lower profile tyre to help that. Bit lower load rating tho. But was told it wouldnt have ne dramas.

[QUOTE=Narchi]Bit lower load rating tho. But was told it wouldnt have ne dramas.[/QUOTE]

Define a "bit"...I know very little about the tolerances of the load rating, but this may be of use: [url="http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible.html#loads"]http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible.html#loads[/url]

Since you are already running more weight than standard it may pay to be sensible about throwing the car around too much. From memory I think my tyres are 87 load rated - thats on an old school rex (MY00). If your a fair bit under that then I'd get a second opinion from a tyre mob that knows their shit. Try Wheels World in Os Park.

its 84. Thanx for the warning coz i was a lil bit worried. But i did talk to the guys from tech9tyres. they said that its still more than enough. But just to be safe i read that the my99 weighs 1300kgs so that means that its way under if thats the case.

sorry to dig up an old thread, but does dentcraft or any other place do mobile guard rolling ?

Yeh Stuart from Dent Craft does mobile work. Or at least he did when I used him last.

0409 906 593

thanx boss

another question, if the guards need to be rolled does that mean that u have to remove the plastic lining up inside the wheel arches ? I have a APS intake so i need something there to protect it from all the shit that will be thrown up from the front wheel.

any suggestions ?