Dont even bother getting them here mate. Straight from Japan through Perfectrun is the best way to go. Got mine for $1100 landed. Cheapest i was quoted here was $2300. Fark that!

I was on the perfectrun website the other day and i did notice their prices had gone up slightly, but it was only something like a few hundred Yen so SFA in other words.

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Honourable Member for The Darkside

MY07 Mitsubishi Ralliart Colt

Yeah just had a look and they do seem really cheap, works out at just under $1300 delivered. How long did yours take to arrive? Am also a bit confused with their naming of the different colours available. If i want the gunmetal colour is it Titan or Carbon? In the top right hand pick titan looks bronze but in the bottom pick its gunmetal

http://www.perfectrun.com.au/real_si...otionCRKai.htm

Yeah had the same problem. Cant remember what name Taki told me was correct. I'll dig up the email and let you know which one corresponds to gun-metal. Took a little over 3weeks to get here i think. My lugs took a little longer but that was just cos they were out of stock at the factory apparently.

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Honourable Member for The Darkside

MY07 Mitsubishi Ralliart Colt

Cool thanks mate, did your price of $1100 include the lugs or were they extra?

Nah they were extra. About $160 odd landed i think.

The gun metal colour name is Matt Carbon according to my invoice. I remember i just wrote "gun-metal grey" on the order form and they figured it out.

EDIT: and sorry, i tell horrible lies. $1100 was the total product cost, so there was about $250 odd frieght on top of that. My bad. Still a lot cheaper than buying them here!

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MY07 Mitsubishi Ralliart Colt

Great, thanks for your help.

Well I've finally decided, after deliberating for about 2 years whether to keep my wheels or refurbish my existing Work VS-XX wheels....I've gone with the refurb, and I’ve taken DIY to a whole new level. Its not your typical home-spec DIY though, I’ve done thorough research and taken a LOT of care in the work I’ve done.

This has involved a fair whack of labour on my part, and I've probably spent about 10 hours so far prepping them and doing the work on them myself. Hard work, but very satisfying feeling!

The process has involved disassembling centres from the outers, as they are a 3 piece rim. This sounds very daunting, but after doing extensive research on a few wheel enthusiast forums (yes, these exist), and with the assistance of a friend who has worked in a wheel shop for many years (and has subsequently disassembled and reassembled quite a few sets of 3 piece wheels), it really isn’t that difficult and requires a bit of care and a lot of patience. The outers are made from 2 separate pieces, sealed in the middle with silicone and clamped together by 40 bolts per rim, which also hold the centres in place.

I first deflated the tyres so I didn't spring any leaks when I separated the centres. Then I spent a fair number of hours with an 8mm 12 point socket and a 10mm 6 point, undoing each bolt around the edge of the rim. They weren't torqued too tight, but they were held in place with thread lock. What a mission! The outers don’t have to be disassembled unless repairs are required on these components, so I refrained from doing this…as mine are perfect apart from needing a clean up and a re-polish by hand.

The centres separated very quickly and easily with a couple of light taps with a rubber mallet, and I sent them off to Perth Powdercoaters aka Tim aka SUBASTYLN for sandblasting. This was done quickly, cheaply and at a high level of quality, and the centres are now at BBK in South Fremantle, copping a few coats of Mazda 3 Black Metallic with a satin finish.

The 160 nuts and bolts from the rims are being refurbished also. Work want $2.80 each for new bolts and nuts, which is a joke considering my existing ones were in perfect condition, and they can be re-used as they are just a Grade 8 bolt and aren’t torque-to-yield, which means they aren’t stretched and don’t need to be discarded.

I went to buy new nuts, but Work in all their wisdom used ¼” diameter UNF thread bolts which are impossible to get in a flanged serrated nut without looking overseas. They do this so you have to buy from them rather than using off the shelf Grade 8s. Its probably for safety reasons too, so home mechanics don’t replace them with basic mild steel nuts/bolts. Mine are perfect and not damaged, so I’ve soaked each nut in methylated spirits and sat down with a toothbrush and cleaned threadlock gunk and brake dust off each one. I’m about 20% of my way through it, I plan on doing a few each night until I get them all done as this takes a lot of time.

The bolts are currently at Ultrachrome being stripped of their black paint, and are being chrome triple plated.

The outers have copped a bit of TLC also, and I sat with a scrubbing brush and detergent and I cleaned the brake dust off each one. Wheel weights and caked on lumps of tar have been scraped off. The polished outers are perfect and aren’t damaged in any way, so they are going to be re-polished with some autosol, a rag, and a lot of elbow grease.

The centre caps got the balistc treatment also. They are white with a raised “VS Work” logo in chrome. The centre caps are two piece with the back part that clips into the rim, and the badge being double-side taped to this. The badge and back were separated, and the tape stripped off with a bit of metho. As the badges are painted from the rear, I sanded these back with 800 grit, followed up with some 1200 grit to remove the white paint and leave a nice surface to paint on. The raised logo in chrome remains, and the rest will be painted in flat black to suit the new wheel colour. Easier than paying $120 for new caps, and considering none come in the colour I wanted (the closest was gloss black with gold logo), it’s a no brainer! These will be stuck back onto the rear part of the cap with more double sided tape once they are done.

Once the centres come back from paint, I will re-assemble the whole lot, very carefully. All sources point to re-torquing the bolts to 30nm in a clock pattern i.e. 12 o’clock, 6 o’clock, 9 o’clock, 3 o’clock. I need to do this 10 times to finish off each rim (as there are 40 bolts). Loctite IS NOT required from what I’ve seen and been told, but I’ll probably use some light grade threadlock just to be safe.

I’m also on the prowl for some new wheel nuts, I’ll probably buy some decent Jap ones. I’m chasing the ones that are two piece and the bottom half that contacts the rim, rotates as you tighten, so you don’t scratch the paint off when they are tightened.

New tyres will be coming also, and of course I’ll have the whole lot balanced when they are fitted. Photos will be posted when the whole lot is done

Awesome Joe... Can you come around to mine when your finished... I've got some 19"s that need "the Balistic" treatment!


Serious!

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www.ToonMyRide.com.au

'04 E46 S/C M3 Coupe

Can definitely advise on this Jimmy

What sort of rims are they? Are they a true 3 piece rim??

http://www.perfectrun.com.au/perform...otionCRKai.htm

Pricing seems good, im considering those in 17 by 7 as I can only run 215 tyres. Any issues with their service in general Blair?

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