You are much better off making the box yourself or getting a shop to make it. Prefab boxes are rarely up to scratch (thin material, wrong size etc). Also, you are much better off getting a decent battery than a capacitor.

__________________
John Stamos fan club lifetime member

the kicker boxes are quite good as they have metal supports in them and that reduces flex...

as for the batterey it really depends on what hes got and how old it is.

its all in relation to each other, just make sure your grounding is up to standard and everything else will work :P

Why is that? Unless you mean a second, boot mounted battery solely for audio purposes.

Unless the battery is mounted within 1m, you will still get noticable voltage drop. When you start cranking up the volume, the amplifier will draw more and more amperage. If your system is of sufficient goodness, it will draw amps out of the electrical system faster than the altenator can charge it back up. Result = lights dimming with the beat etc all round it turns good gear into shit. It will sound better, preform better and have much less chance of blowing anything if you add a cap.

__________________
No more GC8, sad face.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

a cap has a quicker discharge than a battery, so it can supply the quick transient power draws needed in audio

another couple of points too kids......

- if you are serious about big audio, then get a bigger alternator and some circuit protection for the ECU and main electricals of the car. Its been a few years, but there were a great number of people shorting out and destroying ecu's due to large fluctuations in system voltages. The ecus can cope with moderate changes, but they arlimited to changes in the orginal system, not a highly modified one.

- you guys are quoting HUGE power outputs in amplifiers, i'm not going to tell you that they are inaccurate, but i would recommend checking fuse sizes instead. This will give you a 'no bullshit' figure in terms of what the unit can actually output. It will also enable you to compare apples with apples if you know what i mean.

best of luck lads!!

__________________
aka [ITSNSTI]....... still noobish

13.097 ET stock MY02STi.... first time @ drag

"Whatever it costs you to fix that car, is pretty cheap therapy", Dr. Phill

kenwood kac-9103d 1800 watt

500 wrms @ 4 ohms
900 wrms @ 2 ohms

what does that mean and would it be able to power the 12" kicker 750 rms ?

the more you dampen the back wave (ie the better your box) the less that backwave will cancel out the front wave (sound)

so you can have eleventy billion watts going into a woofer with a chipboard box
and it will be destroyed in every way by a speaker with a 35mm mdf or marine ply box with a 100watt amp. a cheap box will absorb a TON of power just in flexing.

also you can have a light and fast driver than only handles 50w and it will destroy these heavy and slow crap sub woofers drivers i see all over car audio that are designed as such so they can simply quote massive power figures!

car audio is fucking broken.

best woofer i ever heard was 8inchs and took 150watts.

actually here is the link:

http://www.accuton.com/e/data/produc...e_C220-T6.html
the driver membrane is ceramic, and its as thick as an egg shell - it has almost no weight - and you couldn't believe how fast it is.

Capacitors don't hold enough energy to be of any real use in a 12V audio application. When you are talking about drawing in excess of 80amps for a "bass hit" the capacitor will completely discharge in no time, and offer little benefit, whereas a better battery will be able to supply the required current with minimal fuss. When using sufficiently sized cable, voltage drop should not be an issue. The benefits of capacitors has been tested many times in audio circles and the result is always the same, a better battery will give you a better effect for the same dollars.

Also, whilst I agree that big, heavy cones can make a woofer sound muddy, most of the snappy bass that you hear is actually produced by the midrange speakers, particularly on drums. Light cones and low power handling are no good for SPL either, and as you say, this is where I think most car audio is focused. I.E young kids, loud music.

__________________
John Stamos fan club lifetime member

2 ohm is fine for one sub... for 2 subs you need 1 ohm

ok I got my sub and amp on order

kenwood kac-9103d
kicker S12L7 4ohms

anyone got any recommendations on where to go to fit a full car system ?

Have to say Alberts FTW. If possible, I believe the guys at Alberts Morley are up there with the best, particuarly Ryan, just don't know if he still works there. Have had almost all of my stereo work done by them and the jobs have all been top notch and after care is excellent. I had them do an install in my VN. Ipod lead into centre storage bin, custom lower door panels, custom parcel shelf, custom sub box, raised boot floor retaining spare wheel and adding two storage compartments, Dynamat to entire boot, front doors and roof, motorised antenna, full alarm and central locking. All up the install cost $4500. Gear installed was Alpine MP3, Alpine 2 way splits, Alpine 6x9's, 8 Farad Soundstream Cap, Optima Gel battery, 3 x JL Audio 12W6 subs, Alpine MRV-1507, Alpine MRV-F405 Special Edition

Whatever you do, don't skimp on the install. IMO you should be spending close to what you paid for the gear on the install as well. But that's just me, I'm an audiophile.
Deck, Splits, Rear Fill, Amp, Sub Box, Cables, Fuses, Dynamat, Cap/Battery could be done for around $1000 at the cheapest I'd say

__________________
No more GC8, sad face.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]