I know the 330mm AP that was on the RA will NOT fit behind a 16" stock rim.

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[DBR]

The MMS Liberty RS that runs in targa has upgraded rims (17" WRX rims) and Brembos. I don't see why a change in wheel size would affect you in regards to eligibility to enter your car into targa.

Why not give the event organisers an email to confirm? Let them know what you would like to do (i.e. AP's and bigger rims) and whether it will affect your car's eligibiltiy...

They got away with 17" wheels on the lib because they found it had been homogated with 17" wheels for track racing..

as for the RA, it probably has a larger homolgated wheel, like an 18" but the cost of the rubber for those wheels becomes a problem..

given you can stick a 330mm rotor and good calliper behind a 16" wheel, its easier to head that way and easier to comply to the rules than dicking around trying to find old homolgation specs for the car

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Jesus Built my car, Its a love affair, Mainly Jesus and my hotrod

Also I was talking about Targa Tasmania. I think the rules for Targa west are somewhat more lax.

I figured that if Michael South and Tony Sullens could not work it out then I should probably not bother.

Other advantage with 16's are that they reduce the unsprung weight ovre 17 & 18's.

Brendon

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Losing is worse than death. You have to live with losing....

I figured that if Michael South and Tony Sullens could not work it out then I should probably not bother.

Other advantage with 16's are that they reduce the unsprung weight ovre 17 & 18's.

Brendon[/QUOTE]

Running a 17" rim should not make a difference in Targa West. Wheels & tyres are open in all classes as long as they are road legal?? Tony Sullens squezed V8 supercar brakes into his GC8 for targa tas which = 1st place

I would not worry about the weight difference. I know Jamie Lister is a big fan of the 16" X 8 but then you have to deal with tyres and if you dammage one they are as rare as rocking horse shit!!!

Jamie Lister also runs Dukes old AP setup so be worth having a look at them.

Your rotors dont look too bad to me brendan. When you have cracks 1mm+ wide running from the centre all the way to the outside and the pedal shudders when you hit it, its time to replace them.

Personally in the short term, pulling off the backing plates and maybe some ducting might help on the multi lap stuff.

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And on that note Adrian, JL is running AP calipers @ front and they clear as far as i know... Peter Herd (down south member) is running Alcon's on 16's off top of my head (correct me if im wrong)

edit: beat me to it Blaise :P

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MY00 GT Forester with STi goodies

I have cracked a 4000 rotor driving on the road in my old rex. That is an interesting experience. The still tracked fine but massive wobble through the steering wheel .

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Losing is worse than death. You have to live with losing....

I'd be inclined to agree with Jamie. As stated earlier, my 'grooves'/ worn lines are much less noticeable with only the usual glazing. But I did only use 2500's. With the price increase in 2500's, I am also now considering Pagid Blues as an all rounder... they are also a LOT kinder on rotors in comparison to 3000's.

Again I gotta sing high praises about effective ducting! If the heat is taken away, think of the possibilities with re: pads, rotors etc?!! It's probably the main reason why I've got away with only running 2500's at multi lap events!!

Don't you mean Project 'Meh'?!

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"...even my Grandma can drive fast in a straight line"