Another brake thread, long peddle, but read before commenting

[Denver]

Ok, the car we've got for dutton has a bit of an anoying brake issue, basically, it has a really long pedal, it still brakes good when you hit it but it travels far to much for my liking

However, it only travels a long way when the car is running eg, the booster, is boosting..

BUT

its not that simple, heres why

Ive stuck a hydralic handbrake in, Where the two rear brake lines come out of the proportioning valve, ive joined them into one, via a t piece, fed it through the handbrake, and out to the rear all via a single line, where i split it into two again at the diff and feed each rear wheel...

Now my question is this, is my long pedal due to me turfing the dual line setup, and its taking its time pushing the fluid through a single line, or is something else a problem..

possible fixes are, flicking the proportioning valve, blocking off an outlet out of the master cylinder, and using a single line to feed the rear..

or switching back to the ABS master cylinder, <im running a non abs master cyl currently which has 4 outlets> which has two outlets, and using one for front, splitting it, and using one for the rear?..

or if someone has done a hydralic handbrake in the car, howd ya do it?

[urabus]

Denver,

I have attached a photo of the non abs set up in my car.



Is this the same as what you have?

Why do you need to plumb into the lines at all? Why would you not just tee into the rear brakes straight at the master cylinder.

On the other hand I had a good look at Kim Ledgers Evo 9 and they had plumbed the braided cable straight down to the rear caliper and hooked it in there. Figured you could just tee straight off the back of the caliper.

Any other ideas?

Brendon

[nauli]

Denver...ask MMS

[Denver]

yeah thats the same setup, and as for why, the handbrake we have is a pass through setup, not a handbrake with its own resivoir, that and feeding fluid directly into the lines at the master cyl, in a non pass through setup would result in either feeding fluid to all the wheels, or filling the main master cyl with fluid i imagine..

[BALISTC]

Long shot, but did you maintain the factory diameter of the brake lines when you did the rear setup?

[Denver]

swapped to dash 3 braided line for the rear..

[dtrally]

So you have abandoned the diagonal split system and now have front/rear split? The other way involves a double handbrake cylinder, that has a chamber for each rear circuit. They're hideously expensive though. Have you completely removed the ABS pump and lines etc? If you pull the handbrake on do you still get a long pedal? you may have air in the lines or even in the handbrake master cylinder. I have to remove mine and tilt it toward the outlet port to get the air out when bleeding, or try gently pulling the lever up with the rear bleeder open, but don't let the handle drop back down, close the bleeder then push the brake pedal to recharge the handbrake cylinder as you lower the handle. Don't pump furiously either, slow and steady.

[Denver]

possible, but as i said previously, the peddle only turns to poo when the car is running, if in a bleeding situation the peddle is good..

its got me miffed a little

[dtrally]

It's normal for the pedal to sink further when the car's running, that's the function of the booster. With the car off, it should take about 3 pedal applications to deplete the booster's vacuum supply, if not you are probably missing the one way valve. Once the vacuum's gone you should have a rock hard, no sponge pedal. Is this the case?
Is the car 'B' rego (it probably should be with a hyd h/brake anyway) if so, throw the whole lot away (master cylinder & booster) and fit a twin master cylinder pedal box with balance bar. Than you'll have consistency with antilag on and infinite bias adjustability.

[Welby]

Give Maximums (9249 7444) or Race Brakes (9390 0183) a call.

Welby