Upgrading Alternator Cable - Page 2 - Perth-WRX.com

Chrus · #11 09-10-2007, 07:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kato

Upgrading the cable will do squat. A simple analogy, think of a pipe with water running in it. No matter how big you make the pipe you cannot increase the amount of water in the pipe without increasing the supply of water. Same principle in electrics.

Do the simple checks as per Tuna's recommendations above.

Here we go - back to fluid mech 101

But seriously - changing cable will be like pissing in the sea. You need more powah!!

devilfish · #12 09-10-2007, 09:01 AM

please see my first post, New alternator...

Hurtenstein · #13 09-10-2007, 09:07 AM

Isnt a forrie one bigger?

WhiteRX · #14 09-10-2007, 09:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kato

Upgrading the cable will do squat. A simple analogy, think of a pipe with water running in it. No matter how big you make the pipe you cannot increase the amount of water in the pipe without increasing the supply of water. Same principle in electrics.

Do the simple checks as per Tuna's recommendations above.

True, but there is a thing called voltage drop, and there is only so many amps that you can pull through a peice of wire over a distance, before the voltage starts dropping, so if you had a massive water supply, but a little pipe, you would still have a very low flow rate, the same pressure but low flow

Hurtenstein · #15 09-10-2007, 09:30 AM

And do they only flicker when idling?
Because thats pretty normal, and the biggest cables in the world wont fix that.

Kato · #16 09-10-2007, 09:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WhiteRX

True, but there is a thing called voltage drop, and there is only so many amps that you can pull through a peice of wire over a distance, before the voltage starts dropping, so if you had a massive water supply, but a little pipe, you would still have a very low flow rate, the same pressure but low flow

Yeah yeah... It was only a simple analogy to prove a point.

mr_psi · #17 09-10-2007, 09:47 AM

ground back to the batterey.... make sure your ground cable is the same awg as the power cable... if that doesnt fix your problem you need a bigger alternator

phizzle · #18 09-10-2007, 03:26 PM

Bosch 120A alternator will do the trick. Makes more amperage at idle than your current stocker does flat out. No idea on price but I assume not cheap. Will definetly sort out your problem though

Simmo7 · #19 09-10-2007, 04:50 PM

A bosch 120A Alternator is pretty much the biggest you can get for a car. I had one strapped to my old n15 pulsar. Shit it went slow but i was lugging around 300-500kg of stereo equipment.

Um all up for mine with custom brackets made was 800 the alt alone was 350 i think.

Whats the B.S??? Bullshit??? Or you already running a capacitor???

If your running a bigger enough sound system to warrent dimming of headlights and every other light and accessory connected to the battery a cap is a usefull tool.

My old car was much the same as a member on here (sorry forgoten name) "the f6typhoon from westside" running 5 amps 2 subs and pulling around 6500w. Now i had a 990cca optima deep cycle battery, 120amp alternator, and still in the boot had 3 1 farrad caps.

Look at every car that has a decent stereo they are all using caps. My wrx now started to dim the lights with my new stereo so in went a cap problem solved.

Anyways everyone is different, I just think a alt is something that needs to be done last.

phizzle · #20 09-10-2007, 04:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Simmo7

A bosch 120A Alternator is pretty much the biggest you can get for a car.........Um all up for mine with custom brackets made was 800 the alt alone was 350 i think.

Look at every car that has a decent stereo they are all using caps. My wrx now started to dim the lights with my new stereo so in went a cap problem solved.

I have an optima battery and 5 farad soundstream cap in my mobile sound room (VN dunnydore to be exact) Never had any issues with excessive current draw. Runs 2 alpine amps. An F409 and 1507, both bridged