understood...however I want to drive faster in a straight line.
I have to behave driving on the streets...I keep getting speeding fines for driving too fast..I figured the responible thing to do is take the wagon to the strip and drive enverywhere else on low boost?

wel i did
springs
rear sway bar
HD links front and rear
etc etc

if ya want sum power:

with the money left over get a bleed valve and a boost gauge. turn it up to 18psi and you'l be set for the time being

Air Intake(APS CAI + AVO silicon intake)
Exhaust(3" mandrel bent TBE)
ECU
Brake setup - Larger calipers with DBA 5000 + Ferodo ds3000
Suspension - Spec C strut or entry level coilovers (TEIN SuperStreet Damper)
ALK, RSB with Link, lateral links & trailing arms (maybe)
Larger injectors & fuel pumps (only if ur starting to run lean)

set aside some dole for blings like stereo HU, speakers, amps & sub (or neon lights ), engine bay dress ups and bodykits, etc.........

and if you're really serious and not broke by now, you can start playing with the engine internals such as forged pistons for higher boost.

jay, if you plan on coming to a perth wrx cruise, i'd suggest spending some money on suspension and brakes first, it really does make the car feel like a completely different machine =)

from the bottom, DBA slotted rotors, Ferrodo DS2500 or RaceBrakes RB74 pads.
Go the Whitline rear sway bar & matching links. I hear the AntiLift kit isnt as necessary on 01+ but someone else can confirm that. As yours is a hatch consdier a rear strut tower brace (whiteline do a quick disconnect kit which is good if you put stuff in the boot). This should fairly well eat your 1500 budget

Brakes will make a world of difference, especially when the STi in front of you stands on the Brembos

__________________
MY93 Impreza GX 1.8L, 0hp, 0nm

silvia s14, 200sx, hsv or fpv...............we buy rex cause its handling

I have pioneer screen, 3 way focal splits and 10" solobaric.

Are neons not cool anymore?

Matt...you are god. Detachable strut braces aye? Are the slotted & Cross Drilled pricey or are they not suitable for normal use?


Thanks guys...I think from now on I will listen more and write less.

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LOL go the neons!

Yeah looks like the guys may have confused you a tad more! But seriously go an ECU, it will then set you up for your next steps, either the power route (turbo, injectors, fuel pump, etc), supporting mods (suspension etc) or Bling (neons, rims, paint, LCDs etc etc etc)

After my last port I do agree with jester, I went suspension before ECU. You learn how to drive the car better before adding power =)

The normal recommendation is to steer away from cross drilled rotors, they tend to crack around the holes. The bottom of the range slotted rotors (I think DBA 650 is the right size for wrx with 4 pot fronts) should set you back around $150 or so each, 4000s will set you back a fair whack more, and unless you plan on tracking the car I personally dont think it will eb worth it, though other members do.

For around $60 you could pick up some whiteline camber pins as well, once again, some members wouldnt recommend them, but i have had them in my 323 for 8 months now with no problems. set your front wheels up with a few degrees of negative camber and you will notice a big difference in what it takes to make your car understeer

strut tower brace-> http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/bulletins/095_ksbQ.pdf

as always, this is just my opinion, do some research and form your own opinion.

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MY93 Impreza GX 1.8L, 0hp, 0nm