Steering Rod? / Problem
 

Hey guys,

Just got back from Rolls Right Tyres and they've just noticed during a tyre change that my 'Tyre Rod Ends' Or Steering Rods (not quiet sure exactly just hope these are the same thing) need replacing because they swivel l/r when twisting them with your hands. (I had bad inside tread tire wear apparently caused by this)

Does anyone know how much these things are worth and if its a mechanic or DIY sorta job?

I've gotten a few prices off the net and around the place but they are fluctuating a lot, so just wondering if anyone's had a similar problem/job and could shed some light on my situation.

Also If someone might know, I'm hearing a clicking sound when turning slowly (split boot?) so do steering/tyre rods come with boot? :confused:

Thanks,
Matt

tie rods*

Tie rod ends are cheap to buy ($20 - $30 each) but installing is best left to a professional as you will need a wheel alignment.
The clicking noise you are most likely hearing when turning corners is your cv joints. Boots normally split, grease escapes and joint wears due to lack of lube.

To save labour cost, fit the tie rod ends yourself, just count how many turns it takes to come of and put the same amount back on, you will be pretty close with the alignment, but still take it down to get checked. As GX-REX said it will be your CV's, best bet is to get a whole recon shaft, its the cheapest way to go about this now days.

it's more likely that the rack ends are worn, quite possibly worn more than the tie rod ends.

i would replace the rack ends aswell and have a wheel alignment.

If you do not know what you are doing, best bet is to send the car to a reputable place to have the repairs done. Steering and suspension are critical parts of the car and if you get it wrong, it could result in a crash. A good workshop will also be able to diagnose any other troubles the car may have in the front suspension. Tyre wear and handling problems can be caused by a multitiude of factors.
The clicking noise is probably a shagged outer CV joint (caused as others have mentioned, by a split boot, lost grease, dirt and wear in the CV). If the CV joints are clicking, it is too late to just replace the boot. These days, it is easier and faster to fit a complete exchange drive shaft than to replace just the CV.

Both driveshaft replacement and/or tie rod end replacement needs a wheel alignment afterwards anyway so best bet is to get them done at the same time.
The parts are not ridiculously expensive and an hour or two* on the hoist is all the actual replacement takes + wheel alignment.
*Providing nothing else is worn out in the front suspension such as ball joints, drop links, bent lower control arms or bushes.

Matt, if you get the parts bring it round mine and i'll do it for you, then just book it in for a alignment.

[QUOTE=Rally_Action;639771]

Both driveshaft replacement and/or tie rod end replacement needs a wheel alignment afterwards anyway so best bet is to get them done at the same time.
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May i ask why you would need a wheel alignment if your just replacing the driveshafts? Your not actually changing or altering any of the alignment when your doing the CV's, unless you have camber bolts, your toe will stay the same.

[QUOTE=redlib;639776]May i ask why you would need a wheel alignment if your just replacing the driveshafts? Your not actually changing or altering any of the alignment when your doing the CV's, unless you have camber bolts, your toe will stay the same.[/QUOTE]

You have to remove the hub from the ball joint or hub from strut to replace the driveshaft. Also have to remove the driveshaft nut which can also change geometry. Any removal or disconnection of the front suspension components should really be accompanied with a wheel alignment.

never seen anyone do a wheel alignment just for replacing driveshafts before :/