[QUOTE=inrextc;659865]You sure your not looking at the air con compressor?
Water pump is behind the cam belt covers.[/QUOTE]

Yeah id agree the clack sounds like the magnetic clutch on the compressor

^^ I agree with these two, you were looking at the air con compressor

I think I may be a cabbage and you guys are right.

Now I am thinking it must be the thermostat, is it normal for them to just die? The top hose has pressure and is hot when the engine is at temp......

Apparently the wind being blown from the fans should be bloody hot when the thermostat is open? I will check it tonight.

Is it normal for it to get up to max hot in a matter of minutes if it is the thermostat?

Cheers again

Bottom hose cooler/cool?

Like I said two months ago I did -

new thermostat
radiator flush

ended up being siezed pump

Thermostat is located at the bottom of the radiator. Check the bottom hose. if you do decide to undo it and pull the thermostat out, be ready for a flush.

Simplest way to decide if a thermostat is working is to dunk it in a cup of boiling water. you'll see it open up. If it's stuck close, toss it and buy a new one.

Theoretically, the rate the car comes up to temp should be the same for a stuck thermostat and a functioning thermostat. It's just that with a stuck thermostat, you'll see the temperature continue rising.

Have you check the following?
- overflow level - should be between the min and max line, not to the top
- coolant fluid condition - when the car is cool, open the cap and check for murkyness, discolouration, oil.
- absense of coolant in radiator - chances are there was a lot of air in the system. This could account for the clapping noise (possible cavitation of water pump).

Always perform task on cooling system when the car is cool, doing so will avoid burns.

Cheers,
Fred

[QUOTE=fffffred;659929]Thermostat is located at the bottom of the radiator. Check the bottom hose. if you do decide to undo it and pull the thermostat out, be ready for a flush.

Simplest way to decide if a thermostat is working is to dunk it in a cup of boiling water. you'll see it open up. If it's stuck close, toss it and buy a new one.

Theoretically, the rate the car comes up to temp should be the same for a stuck thermostat and a functioning thermostat. It's just that with a stuck thermostat, you'll see the temperature continue rising.

Have you check the following?
- overflow level - should be between the min and max line, not to the top
- coolant fluid condition - when the car is cool, open the cap and check for murkyness, discolouration, oil.
- absense of coolant in radiator - chances are there was a lot of air in the system. This could account for the clapping noise (possible cavitation of water pump).

Always perform task on cooling system when the car is cool, doing so will avoid burns.

Cheers,
Fred[/QUOTE]

Cheers Fred

I will check the fluid levels tonight when cold then take it for a spin and check lower hose temp. The coollant was still bright green when I checked it yesterday so am presuming their is no contamination...

the thermostat is at the bottom of the water pump, not the bottom of the radiator.

check that the bottom hose is getting warm, if it isn't the thermostat is most likely stuck closed.

Above is what i am thinking, the click is the AC compressor cycling on and off. If the water pump was seizing, i would think you would be seeing a lot of smoke, and a few bent valves when the belt snaps!

Mine drove fine - just got hot very quick.

[QUOTE=teejay;660124]Mine drove fine - just got hot very quick.[/QUOTE]

Same mate, within a few minutes temp skyrockets up, bottom hose was staying cool though. Hoping just the thermostat....... will update