Excellent point . . .

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"ALLPAWS" 2014 WRX RS 40 - modding very slowly.
2002 Mitsubishi Airtrek Turbo R - Ralliart Edition (daily)
2010 Nissan GT-R - when the Missus let's me drive it :)
Crotch Rockets . . .

Why the fuck would you want a gold wrapped intercooler ? Not sure about painting a tmic black but a fmic for ninja spec.

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Bitches love cardigans

its not wrap, its heat reflecting layer to REFLECT heat away from TMIC...

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MY08 STI 422whp at 1.5bar on E85, built by Diversion Garage, assembled and tuned by EvoR

Update from new owner: 375whp at 1.4bar on 98, at Tokyo Motorsport

Regardless, it looks cheap and tacky and I'm pretty certain officer friendly will be have something to say.

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Bitches love cardigans

Finally the only valid reason I've seen for the difference, however, they did heat soak the IC in both cases.

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[COLOR=Black]Liberty GT Spec B tuned 240 HP & 372 Nm at the hubs.[/COLOR] "Instead of banning high performance cars - ban low performance drivers"

I'd really like to see the static test redone on the black I/C now that the paint would have fully cured.

A little digging found this thread. Interestingly it seems the same test was performed with negligible difference. Ref post #29

Painting Intercooler Black - Better heat dissipation? - Page 2

MCM definition of heatsoaking was only to achieve a stable core temp. They say that the paint was fully dried prior to the test however the footage seems to indicate it was all performed on the same day. It may well have been touch dry. I doubt they'd have let it sit for a good 24 hrs. Elevating the temps for heatsoaking may have activated solvents not released at room temp.

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MY00 WRX. 89 Prelude. 99 CRV

I used this heat reflective shield and tape on my pw cooler.
Reflective Heat Shield --- Thermal Velocity Australia | Hi-Performance Exhaust Wraps and Heat Shields

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Funny looking German Subaru

Needs moar Blossom Red

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No more GC8, sad face.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

^^ this is the best colour to paint your intercooler for maximum performance.

Add some underbody neons and your butt dyno will go off the scale.

As for the video... It was entertaining.

If someone wants to do this properly, post up a few more results rather than just temperature difference. Having the inlet and exit temp would be more meaningful. If the inlet temp of the black was vastly different to the silver, that is another issue. They are stabilising temperatures by heat soaking, but have just added further insulation to the cooler with the paint (sweet fa I know, but yeah...) Also having the ambient temperature at the time of the test would let you know what was going on (they didn't mention the air temp when doing the 2 tests... was one done at lunch time and the other at dinner time? This could introduce a variable).

If you want to do it all geek like, you would non-dimensionalise all your results to eliminate these variables. Rather than just mention logarithmic something or other.

Then again, I haven't used my brain for 6 months, so who the fark knows

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[COLOR="Gray"]550Nm off a 2L... Just wish it was in the dak dak...[/COLOR]

Air temperatures inside the IC are usually much hotter than even the air under the hood,
at least with above say half throttle and when moving, So, what you want is heat to transfer out from the IC to the air outside. That is the reason why there is an IC. It delivers cooler thus more dense air into the combustion chamber than otherwise. The main mechanism is convection, heat flow by radiation is negligible. So the color of the surface makes no difference in practice.
Special circumstances - such as on a hot day when the vehicle is stationary, then you want max acceleration, if this is your speciality then use a water spray. This covers the IC with water which evaporates taking up the latent heat required from the IC by conduction and convection, again color is not part of it. The video just about found this tho' as Kato says it was not a rigorous test.