Thanks for getting back to me. You can build my ej257 for me oneday if you feel like it haha.

You're not the first here to ask me that :D

Speak to ASG, MMS and maybe give PROTOTYPE a PM hes built 1 or 2 2.2 big horsepower dak daks and has another unicorn in the pipline.

You might be better off using a semi closed STI block if you want to go to rear thrust. If you really want the closed deck then laser us some inserts & get them placed in or add more dowels like you have done previously.

I can't remember what I was quoted, but I have a figure of around $1400 to convert the CD block to rear thrust.

Also, I would stay away from the 14mm head studs, just get some aged hardened ARP's. Again it's one of those expensive pain in the arse jobs that costs a decent amount of money. If you really want the 14mm I can point you in the right direction.

As for the basic stuff, line boring, torque plate honing etc, give Danny a call at [URL="http://http://www.truelocal.com.au/business/performance-modifications/osborne-park"]Performance Mods[/URL]. They have done a fair few big hp Subaru builds of 400kw
++.

I've had the rear thrust conversion done before but that was in the UK it didn't cost anything like that. It would actually be cheaper buying a billet crank which are dual thrust if that's the case.

I can get the studs no problem its the machining work I'm struggling with at the mo.

I've also got another option entirely at the moment but that involves selling my current car and buying one that's 90% done just needs a few niggles sorting out which I can do. But unless I sell my current car it won't happen.

So plan B is either strip my current block which is semi closed or use a CDB. I know how strong the CDB's are and what you can throw at a properly built one so that's my preferred option if mine doesn't sell.

Yeah, I went the Manley with the dual thrust option, as it made more sense. I can't for the life of me remember who quoted me that price though as it was a few years ago now. If you talk to Danny at performance mods, he won't even do the conversion as its too much stuffing around apparently? Maybe he doesn't have the correct tooling or machines?

I can't remember what I paid for the machining for the 14mm studs, but when you factor in the cost of the studs + machining the block & heads, it makes more sense to get the aged hardened ARP ones. Unless your planning on 40+ pounds of boost into it. My personal opinion is the ARP's will get the same result at a cheaper price.

I'll get the guys info who did my studs in the block.

One thing you have to keep in mind, is that Perth is very small in comparison to the UK, so the necessity to complete some of these more intricate tasks is not really here, hence the higher pricing as everything takes longer, due to the experience level & how many times they have completed the task before.

I'm just here for the eye candy. Some very nice kit there. Cheers for sharing.

I almost forgot. You could also try Tony from knight engines in South Australia. Again, has completed lots of work on high HP suby's & is a easy guy to talk too.

[url=http://www.truelocal.com.au/business/performance-modifications/osborne-park]Performance Modifications, Osborne Park Perth - Mechanic[/url]

Buy Tino's car!

[QUOTE=RUSSGT;817499]Buy Tino's car![/QUOTE]

Didn't Tino actually sell it a while back & its now being resold by the new owner.?

Those were the latest reports anyway. ;)