Agreed. People think that lower temp thermos are beneficial. Its not.

Lower temp thermos are wives tales.......Your engine is designed to work within a certain temperature range - SUBARU knows best - with Ej's its 87-98 degrees.
(Coolant won't boil until 115c under pressure)

FYI: OEM thermo fans kick in at 94 (low speed fan) and 96 degrees (High speed fan), both use a 2 degree hysteresis (low cuts out at 92, high cuts out at 94).

Your stock thermostat opens at 77 degrees.

More important is your oil temp!

Said many times before SUBARU OEM head gaskets are the best!

Invest in some ARP head studs to keep it all together better - no need to go overboard with 625+ or 14mm studs if it's a street car.....

Kinda on-topic - Guys that are running after-market aluminium radiators. I just bought one. A Mishimoto X-Line 3 row.

Comes with it's own 1.3bar cap on the radiator. Am I being paranoid, or should I not run with in conjunction with the OEM cap on the header tank?

[url=http://www.mishimoto.com/subaru-wrx-impreza-sti-performance-aluminum-radiator-01-triple.html]Subaru WRX/STI X-Line Performance Aluminum Radiator, 2001–2007, by Mishimoto[/url]

[QUOTE=Rossco;821429]

Said many times before SUBARU OEM head gaskets are the best!

Invest in some ARP head studs to keep it all together better - no need to go overboard with 625+ or 14mm studs if it's a street car.....[/QUOTE]

I think I'm going to swap the Tomei and go back to OEMs... I'm getting 625s

[QUOTE=RJ999;821436]I think I'm going to swap the Tomei and go back to OEMs... I'm getting 625s[/QUOTE]

Why are you getting 625+'s?

Complete overkill for your application...... 625+'s are $700 worth of head studs......Great if you can run 35Psi of boost - a waste unless you are sleeving & close decking the cases.

The ARP 260-4701 head studs are what I have in mine ($280) - I run 1.7 bar daily & rev it to 8500 rpm - the heads have not lifted in 4 years......... On OEM head gaskets too.

I also have the ARP case bolts 260-5401 ($550) - Which add crank case rigidity - a far better investment imho.

Rossco - See Jacob's foz had arp2000s gasket went, apparently 625s were the go.
You using Subaru oem head gaskets still?

I had commetic shit in there tho

[URL=http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/Gtfozza/media/Mobile%20Uploads/received_10152851532956156_zpsa37vgxoe.jpeg.html][IMG]http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n503/Gtfozza/Mobile%20Uploads/received_10152851532956156_zpsa37vgxoe.jpeg[/IMG][/URL]
using the Perth-WRX mobile app

[QUOTE=RJ999;821445]Rossco - See Jacob's foz had arp2000s gasket went, apparently 625s were the go.
You using Subaru oem head gaskets still?[/QUOTE]

Yep - Subaru OEM head gaskets in mine.

Jacobs HG [U][B]DID NOT[/B][/U] fail because the ARP 11mm head bolts stretched!!

^^ Read that twice.......

the contributing factor was that he used Cometic head gaskets during assembly (I thought they'd been hylomar'd but apparently not :) )

625's are the rage in 700HP+ builds - like I said - Unless you are sleeving/closed decking your 2.5 you are wasting your money.

Use ARP 11mm studs - get the case bolt set - Add forged pistons - Add cams - have it all properly balanced - Enjoy your daily 300-330hp at the hubs.

No hylomar was used on mine

using the Perth-WRX mobile app

move this chat to my thread Rossco :)

I thought you said there was? on SOWA or somewhere?

My apologies Jacob

All good from what I've been told hylomar helps hold commetic together anyways OEM ready to go back in now :)

using the Perth-WRX mobile app

Doesnt lower coolant temp helps knock control and seal/gasket longevity?

I thought moderm cars runs hotter temp to bring down emissions?

Even the Americans have got it right... a lower temp thermostat is useless ffs

Quote:
We at Crawford Performance will start this by stating the number one issue responsible for the damage to Subaru engines is the free software available on the internet to modify the tuning parameters within the ECU. There is plenty of bad advice going around but the most common one I hear is "the bigger or looser the piston or bearing clearances, the better the engine will perform." [B]Another is about larger pressure/volume oil pumps are always better because the factory oiling system on the EJ motors are inadequate, when in fact, a high-pressure oil pump can cause oil cavitation while lowering the ability for any oiling system to work efficiently. Another falsified fact is using a lower-temp thermostat will make your motor run cooler in hot weather but in reality it will have zero effect on increasing your engine's cooling capability.[/B] Other falsified facts include tuners believing that installing 1mm oversized intake and/or exhaust valves over the stock size valve seats will increase cfm airflow, and the best of all that makes me laugh every time I hear it is "you can make 500 whp safely on pump gas."

Read more: [url=http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/engine/impp-1103-subaru-ej-series-engine-tech/#ixzz3YgNylwyv]The Truth Behind The Subaru EJ-Series Engines - Tech-Knowledge - Import Tuner Magazine[/url]

Oversize valves on stock seats do nothing

Assumed as much

What about onces that have been throated and new seats to match oversize valve?

using the Perth-WRX mobile app

[QUOTE=RJ999;821514]Even the Americans have got it right... a lower temp thermostat is useless ffs

Quote:
We at Crawford Performance will start this by stating [SIZE=3][COLOR=navy][B]the number one issue responsible for the damage to Subaru engines is the free software available on the internet to modify the tuning parameters within the ECU[/B][/COLOR][/SIZE]. There is plenty of bad advice going around but the most common one I hear is "the bigger or looser the piston or bearing clearances, the better the engine will perform." Another is about larger pressure/volume oil pumps are always better because the factory oiling system on the EJ motors are inadequate, when in fact, a high-pressure oil pump can cause oil cavitation while lowering the ability for any oiling system to work efficiently.[B] [SIZE=3]Another falsified fact is using a lower-temp thermostat will make your motor run cooler in hot weather but in reality it will have zero effect on increasing your engine's cooling capability.[/SIZE][/B] Other falsified facts include tuners believing that installing 1mm oversized intake and/or exhaust valves over the stock size valve seats will increase cfm airflow, and the best of all that makes me laugh every time I hear it is "you can make 500 whp safely on pump gas."

Read more: [URL="http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/engine/impp-1103-subaru-ej-series-engine-tech/#ixzz3YgNylwyv"]The Truth Behind The Subaru EJ-Series Engines - Tech-Knowledge - Import Tuner Magazine[/URL][/QUOTE]



Highlighted some important bits for S20525xxxxx ...... Now will you STFU with your uneducated posts?

[QUOTE=matto20v;821555]Highlighted some important bits for S20525xxxxx ...... Now will you STFU with your uneducated posts?[/QUOTE]

Im getting bored with ur pointless targeting on every single post I do. So last post on this thread.

First, I make sure I understand what each parameter does before Mao alters it, and program is not as important as tuner's skill, right.

Secondly, that crawford article is spot on, in fact I posted it on my thread too. Low temp thermo stat does nothing, fan kickin temp needs to be adjusted to make it work. but if u do that without installing a thermostat, ur fan will constantly on to cool the engine because oem thermostat is not fully opened.

At last, before I have thermostat and fan setting done, my car runs at 96 on track, now its at 88. Torque is not reduced because of thermal efficiency loss. As someone would say fan does nothing at high speed. Subaru repair manual points out ecu sets different fan speed with different road speed.

using the Perth-WRX mobile app

[QUOTE=s20525xxx;821651]Im getting bored with ur pointless targeting on every single post I do. So last post on this thread.

First, I make sure I understand what each parameter does before Mao alters it, and program is not as important as tuner's skill, right.

Secondly, that crawford article is spot on, in fact I posted it on my thread too. Low temp thermo stat does nothing, fan kickin temp needs to be adjusted to make it work. but if u do that without installing a thermostat, ur fan will constantly on to cool the engine because oem thermostat is not fully opened.

At last, before I have thermostat and fan setting done, my car runs at 96 on track, now its at 88. Torque is not reduced because of thermal efficiency loss. As someone would say fan does nothing at high speed. Subaru repair manual points out ecu sets different fan speed with different road speed.

using the Perth-WRX mobile app[/QUOTE]
Wrong.