Cost is always a factor. But...

Dont wanna brag or anything, tax return is over 8k this year. Thinking 5k on wheels and tyres. 2.5k on a bigger turbo, and maybe use the change and cash from sale of old parts for a retune, pro race setup and a hydro handy once Amtrapid figures it all out for me.

Turbo will make more power, more power will require more grip, more grip suggests bigger tyres. Bigger tyres will require a hydro handy in order to lock up in handbrake maneuvers. Bigger tyres is heavier and will require more power to spin, which will require more turbo, and so on and so fourth. Its a vicious never ending cycle of abuse.

Or maybe I should go on a holiday?

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

Still have those wrapped/coated headers for sale?

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Bye bye betty blue. Hello F6.

Nope. They are gone.

But I do have a set of barely used stainless steel Xforce Headers with unused matching up-pipe for sale. No ceramic coating and no wrap though.

They are a different design to the common EL/UEL headers that are typically used by everyone. Although I dont know how they perform, as I never actually fitted them. But apparently they have an odd note. Kinda half El half UEL if that makes sense.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

+1 for John Fowler ��

if you need a turbo have 2, gt3076 or a gt3582 in excellent cond

Do either bolt on in stock location? Not sure if i can be farked with making one fit. Just want something easy the more i think about it. I think i should just go with something like a dom 2.5. Its the turbo i should have got the first time round.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

Bigger than 245 in the wet doesn't work very well at all, if it is too big you won't get the heat in the tyre to make it work, I think generally if your under 400hp 245 is plenty with a semi slick.
Going wider also changes the geometry of the suspension, plus all the extra unsprung weight slowing down acceleration and braking and the suspension performance

Plus your body shell probably doesn't have the torsional stiffness to really allow big tyres and race set up suspension to work properly

Yeah maybe.... but this aint your average forester.

The car has pretty much every body brace you can get. Plus additionals i have custom made myself. Every crossmember in the car has been swapped to GDB sti for the added strength in them over forester (and the lowered geometry benifets over forester). Plus i have welded additional strength into the rear crossmember. Added additional bolts and welded extra crush tubes into the front subframe to tie it into the additional bolt holes used on the GDB sti crossmember. Every single joint in the suspsion is metal spherical joints with exception of the front LCA which is castor offset whiteline motorsport bushs. Every rubber bushing in outriggers and gearbox crossmember have been upgraded, and even replaced with solid metal components in the case of the gearbox crossmember rubbers. Every engine mount, box mount, diff mount etc is upgraded to the beatrush, which is rated one of the hardest poly bush mounts you can get.

And weld in cage is on my want list. And if you look at the history of this car, you will see its just a matter of when, not if.

Id easily wager that this car is stiffer than any other car on this forum, with the exception of those already fitted with a good cage.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

The suspension is tein mono flex (inverted montube design for added strength over most other entry level motorsport coilovers )

The hubs are 5x114 sti items for a bit of extra strength and wheel choice.

Unsprung weight is not so bad as i run light weight multi piece rotors front AND rear. The front brakes are light weight forged 6pot calipers upfront. ( Bigger diameter disc, but lighter than brembos)

The front arms are forged alloy spec C items. But the rears are very heavy ikeya formula race arms. (Heavy because strong)

So if there was ever a forester that could pull it off, this one is a good candidate.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there