Braking for MY09 Wrx monthly track warrior
 

As some of you know I'm upgrading the brakes on my car 09 wrx.

So Im thinking DBA T3 4000 slotted Front and rear with Hc800 pads.

My question is what fluid i should be running Dot 4? And should I also upgrade the lines to be braided or is the fine tunning/personal preference I know the rubber ones expand alot under hard braking.

Was looking at MOTUL RBF600 also how much fluid will my car need 1 500ml bottle?

Those pads are too hard to run at the rear for daily use, they will squeal like pigs.

You will need a litre of fluid to do the flush. About half a bottle left over when we did mine.

I wouldn't bother with slotted rotors at the rear unless your current ones need replacing.

How often will you be doing track work? If you plan on doing it regularly you might want to go straight to the 5000 series rotor. Our cars are pretty heavy the brakes get very hot quickly.

My T34000's scalloped(warped whatever you want to call it) quickly after about seven rounds of the sprint series and needed machining. I wont be using them again.

If this is for two rotors and the pads it is a great deal.

[url=http://www.prospeedracing.com.au/products/dba-5000-t3-suit-subaru-wrx-08-14-with-project-mu-rc09-club-racer.html]DBA 5000 "T3" suit Subaru WRX 08-14 with Project Mu RC09 Club Racer - Pro Speed Racing[/url]

Hm Monthly thing for me at the moment (maybe more in future) definitely nice interesting suggestion there nick.

thing is got decent corrosion and quite sufficient shattering under hard braking which I expect my stock ones are slightly wrapped.

From the reviews I was looking at hc800's will be quite unless bedded incorrectly have not bought them so i dunno...

is it worth runing a t3 allround set up? or just fronts are sufficient if i get the 2 piece rotors?

what is the split in cars typically? 80-90% of braking force is done infront and the rest is rear 10-20% ?

Have hc800's and rears dont make a sound. Fronts on the other hand, they end up squealing with lots of daily driving. When this happens a quick squirt down the road woth a few hard stops shuts them up.

Fair enough Tony, most track pads are a pain in the arse at the rear for daily use. Mine have been horrible so I just swap them in and out before/after each event.

DBA 5000 two piece front rotors, PMU or Pagid RS19/29 (or cheaper options Bendix Ultimate or ferodo DS2500), front pads, dot 4 fluid - Motul or Brembo. Leave rears as they are. Braided lines are good but not essential for a part time track car...but if you get some, buy quality (ie not cheap)...

Track once a month or more, start saving for brembo's.

Yeah i wouldnt bother with upgrading the standard brakes. Get bigger like brembos.

You have two main options really.

1. Upgrading pads and rotors as per suggestions in this thread. You'll be looking at around $1k to do that. Should net you pretty decent braking performance.

2. Hold on to your money and scour the second hand market for a good deal on brembos. On a lucky day you could probably get calipers + 4000 rotors for $1k ish.

Everybody I spoke to with experience in racing our cars told me to ditch the stock calipers. Too small, don't dissipate enough heat, and no matter the pad/fluid/rotor combo they always faded away.

I've done a little bit of track work on my modest T2 rotors and ns400 pads and it was decent enough to get out and have a go with at least. Perhaps a setup like that to tide you over until you can get something better. Cost me something like $300 to do.

Spend once.