the prologue sucks in japanese

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MY93 Impreza GX 1.8L, 0hp, 0nm

I bet thats what the Japanese will say about the English version

Hahaha

Only because you couldn't change the controller setup

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[COLOR="Gray"]550Nm off a 2L... Just wish it was in the dak dak...[/COLOR]

For the ultimate PS3 driving experince I built my own simulator for the DIRT game and the upcoming GT5...

Good old $100 spent @ Bunnings and a Logitec G25 Wheel=

Now thats cool!!!

hell yes thatt's what i need! Nice to see you're displaying your patriotism towards PB still ^
Hope the wheel is GT5 compatable!

*whispers* And i think it might be in the way of the door.. maybe need to place it in front of a TV






K-Mart has 20% off all video games for a bout a week so if ppl are getting GTPrologue i suggest checking that out first..

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[COLOR="Blue"]"Your car positioning and awareness is f*ing bang on. And like, every single time.
In terms of getting that close to the bollards, Ive only been with one other person that can drive like that" –Franz[/COLOR]
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Broomy - how about posting up the dimensions of the Bunnings Box for the DIY'ers on here (Polar excluded).

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MY09 Evo X - 1.6bar@3500rpm - got lag?
Barbagallo - 56.03 (S); 1:08.09 (L)
Collie - 50.77
Possibly the most under-driven Evo X in the world??

Adrian,

in response to your 'setup' ....Please keep the car! LOL

<3

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MY00 GT Forester with STi goodies

As requested “Very detailed construction plans as follows”:

"Bunning’s Racer" Shopping list..

2 x 12mm MDF Sheets 900x1200mm (side panels)
1 x 12mm MDF Sheet 450x600 (floor)
1 x 12mm MDF Sheet 450x600 (front panels & steering wheel shelf)
4 x 450 x 15x25mm pine battens
1 x 100 pack of 25mm chip board screws
1 x tin of paint (your choice of color)
4 x Caster wheels (so you don’t scratch the timber floor)
1 x Logitech G25 Wheel (which is PS3 compatible)
1 x Sparco Pro 2000 race seat (Optional *Polar could use something stolen from a bus shelter)

Step 1, You need to spend a bit of time to mock up your driving position with your chosen seat to get the correct measurments for the side panels. Once this is done you can go for your life with a gig saw to cut out your side panels *note (make sure you clamp them together, and cut both at once)

Step 2; screw two of the 450mm pine battens, one to each side to make the base for the floor. Then screw one of the 450 x 600mm MDF sheets to this to join the two side panels together. Next repeat this step for the steering wheel shelf (which you have to cut to size).

Step 3, at this point you can then use the remaining MDF sheets to make your front panels. No need to use the battens this time because they are not structural just measure and screw in through both sides of the side panels to attach *note (leave gaps to allow your cables from the pedals & USB connections to pass through the panels.)

Step 4, the final piece of the structural pie is the seat... Race seats that have side mount holes are the best & easiest to use. Measure the mounting holes and then drill out to fit the seat. (You might need to use packers or washers depending on the width of your seat.) Then get the appropriate size & length bolts to fasten it to your frame. Bingo!!!! You’re done....

Step 5, “PIMP YOUR RIDE” paint and modify to your hearts content….

thats sweet dude, job well done. you should make em and sell em!

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FOR SALE - [MY REXTC] - Custom Polycarb Plates - PM Me