Well i always have the same problem...sunrise/sunset photos when the lighting is tricky (also with huge sun/shade areas) i usually use evaluative metering to set the exposure but i'll either get the sky overexposed/background underexposed. Should i use point metering?? if so what do i am it at before locking the exposure??

What camera mate? Different manufacturers use different metering methods.

Just noticed you posted in my other thread stating you had a 400d.

Read this forum thread from dpreview, it is a really good read about Canon's exposure metering modes:
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/re...hread=23628807

There is no 'right' way of exposing a picture, it all comes down to compromise. Ask yourself things like what is my subject? What is the most important area in the photo? and aim your metering to these areas.

There are also some scenes in the real world that exceed the exposure stop range of pretty much all cameras. A camera can usually take in 5 stops (up to 7 for B&W film) of light levels whereas real life can vary over 10 stops in certain scenes. These scenes are almost impossible to get right.

Search the net for "exposure" as there are heaps of good sites out there that I read before getting my SLR (i'm a beginner too!). Also, learn to read the histograms as these graphs are very powerful in understanding whether you have exposed the photo correctly.

I like this site also, easy to read and has some real good tips on exposure and other techniques:
http://digital-photography-school.com/blog/

You could use a ND or ND gradiated filter to balance out the areas or light and dark. You could also do a HDR photo if you have a tripod.

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betty banger

yeah google how to do put together Multiple exposures e.g. 1 shot +1stop, 1 shot +0 and one shot +1. I usually use the exposure graph and take a few shots trying to get as much information in the shot as I can

You should be able to get your camera to do this automatically, using the bracketing function. You set the amount you want to bracket (eg: 1 stop either side of what is set) and it will take 3 photos, one under exposed, one normal, and one over exposed. If my k100d can do it, I'm sure the 400D can!

very interesting read...

so what kind of metering mode are you guys using most of the time CentreWeight or Evaluative??

One thing I dont understand from this is...normally when you take a shot you will:

1. Focus on your subject whatever that may be by pressing the shutter half way. This will set the Exposure (lets say in evaluative mode)
2. Recompose the photo whilst still holding the button half way.
3. Take the shot

Correct me if I'm wrong but wouldn't you want the exposure to change when going from step 1 to step 2?? Since the lighting conditions changed whilst recomposing the shot.

OR, do you:

1. Press the button half way to set the exposure on the subject, select * to lock it.
2. Press the button half way again to focus on the subject (remember the exposure is locked so pressing it again half way only changes the focus point/points)
3. Recompose and shoot.

Which of these methods is the correct method of shooting? This is whilst using the evaluative metering method. I know that for different conditions you'll want to use a different metering method but at the moment I'm talking about the Evaluative method....

Confused as ever...yours truly Pete

Like you said it depends on the situation. If your subject is in the shadows and there are bright sunny areas in the shot as well then you either have to accept a compromise of underexposed subject or overexposed sunny areas, or do a HDR shot to get everything looking right.

If you wanted to lock exposure of some other area then focus on your subject, then yes using AE lock is the way to go (The * button on canon can be configured with custom functions, so read your manual to get the desired setting).

Also, know that the camera is trying to expose the metered area to an 18% grey level, so choosing an object that would represent such value is a good way to go (could be grass or clouds etc, try to imagine the scene in B&W). You can also use an 18% grey card if you wanted to get professional... Squinting can also help show you where the high and low contrast areas are in your shot.

How many AF points do you use? As the forum post suggests, the evaluative mode on Canon's tends to weight around the selected points.

Experimentation is probably the best way to solve this question...

Use Photomatix. Take with bracket -3 to +3 then mix it with HDR. HDR ftw!

I disagree with this HDR business for this situation, your better off combining 3 exposures in photoshop rather then making a HDR its not the same thing