I measured the stoke on the HB MC when i pull it hard. It moves approx 5mm on each side. I cant recall the total, but i think i measured 20mm each side total movement when it bottoms out??? (Wont be able to measure for sure unless i undo hydraluic connections and pump it that way.)

Do im using maybe 1/4 of its volume?

[QUOTE=nauli;834231]Bram, I would say either plumbing or mechanism.....[/QUOTE]

Do you think pad type would have much bearing?

Steve. Do you know if any other of these master cylinders youve seen have a coloured cable tie on them?

AP use a different coloured cable tie on thier master cylinders as a quick way to denote cylinder size. Just wondering if maybe they come in different sizes in this tandem handbrake style configuration. Think it had a blue cable tie on it originally. It definitely has 0.7" bores.

So. After asking NASIOC about my issue. Someone said that the block near the master cylinder that ive made my joins at, is not actually a proportioning valve. I didnt believe them, so i found my original forester item and took ot apart to inspect. And sure enough, there is no valve inside. Its just a simple hollow pass-though. It looks like this same block could be configured with a valve inside. But this one is entirely empty inside. So maybe Subaru were lazy, and instead of removing the block when they fitted ABS, they simply put an empty unit inplace.

Weird.

Also opened up the rear joint block thats just below the floor where the 2 rear brake lines come out of the floor near the rear diff outrigger. It is a simple union aswell. No valve inside that either.

Is abs playing against you? You zprob have but is it worth pulling the fuses out for it and seeing if it makes a difference

using the Perth-WRX mobile app

[QUOTE=Jacob92;834279]Is abs playing against you? You zprob have but is it worth pulling the fuses out for it and seeing if it makes a difference

using the Perth-WRX mobile app[/QUOTE]

Good suggestion.

Just tried this now, and there is no noticeable difference with the big 30A fuse in or out. (Except the ABS light on the dash being on) i tried first with it in, then out, then back in again and did a number of attempts each way.

But interestingly, it does seem a little better since i last tried. And the only thing thats changed is me undoing the fittings under the floor. Then doing them back up and re-bleeding. But the improvement is marginal at best, placebo at worst. The cable/drum park brake still does a considerably better job of locking the rear.

I have also read that pov model foresters dont have abs in sf may or may not be same in sg but i think i might look at a wrecked one and steal the engine bay lines :p

[QUOTE=Jacob92;834286]I have also read that pov model foresters dont have abs in sf may or may not be same in sg but i think i might look at a wrecked one and steal the engine bay lines :p[/QUOTE]

Probably just as easy to bend and flare your own? Will only need a few meters of steel bundy, a handfull of metric unions and a couple of T pieces. Can even reuse the original unions if you dont mind chopping up your pipe work to free them.

Im now considering removing the ABS in a hope to get my hydro working. I didnt want to, but if it has to be, it has to be. Ill probs re-run the rear lines at the same time. And save up some coin for twin circuit adjustable proportioning valve aswell.

Ive ordered some more aggressive rear pads in the meantime and im gonna give that a try first. Went with a set of Ferodo DS3000s. Dunno how good they are but the description sounds like it will have a better chance of working than the Cosworth Streets.

Heres the LHD group N layouts. N12 / N12B / N14.


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[QUOTE=Bram;834233]Do you think pad type would have much bearing?[/QUOTE]

I doubt it very much.
ABS could be an issue though...