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#901
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Fair chance GC sub frame drops out the same? Need to drop the tank but have been dreading it. That looks way easier than I was anticipating.
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Balls. |
#902
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Quote:
I kept the trailing arms still connected to the car body, as that is where the handbrake cables and abs if equipped will meet the hub. But i did already disconnect the handbrake cables from inside the cabin, and feed them through the floor as part of the prep work for the roll cage/seam welding. So not sure if this will interfere with the tank. You will need to unclip the brake lines from the struts to let the hub come down far enough. Dont need to disconnect the hydraulic fluid connection, just the clip or bolt that secures the hose to the strut. That way it can flex enough to give clearance. Then its literally drop the exhaust, tailshaft, 3 bolts on each strut top. 4 bolts on the crossmember, also undo the swaybar. And unbolt the diff outrigger from the body. Then lower the whole lot down with a jack. Just make sure you dont stretch the brake hoses, or handbrake cables etc.
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Doing it for all the wagons out there Last edited by Bram; 05-03-2019 at 01:37 PM. |
#903
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I actually pulled the tank out rearward aswell. In between the crossmember and car body. Having the spare wheel well removed may have made this possible though.
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Doing it for all the wagons out there |
#904
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Yeah mint.
Really can't be fucked if I have to undo the brake lines...
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Balls. |
#905
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Door bars cut, bent and notched.
2019-03-09_02-41-55 by bram biesiekierski, on Flickr 2019-03-09_02-42-01 by bram biesiekierski, on Flickr 2019-03-09_02-42-14 by bram biesiekierski, on Flickr
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Doing it for all the wagons out there |
#906
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Fuel cell arrived.
2019-03-08_06-40-34 by bram biesiekierski, on Flickr A sample of the foam to be experimented with. 2019-03-08_07-16-44 by bram biesiekierski, on Flickr Soaking in E85. 2019-03-08_06-39-15 by bram biesiekierski, on Flickr
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Doing it for all the wagons out there |
#907
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Is there a concern it'll destroy the foam? Do ATL not certify it for E85 use?
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#908
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Quote:
I spoke with ATL direct before ordering. And this was the recommend foam for e85. They have a black alcohol specific foam, and a yellow gas (petrol) foam. And a grey fast-refueling foam aswell. The yellow petrol foam tolerates the ethanol better than the black alcohol foam tolerates the petrol content in e85. So the recommendayion with e85 is to use the yellow foam. And use the black foam for methanol cars. I have heard horror stories about foam disintergrating. And the cell has a sticker on it saying to renew the foam every year. Given the car still has a lonflg build infront of it. I figure i can test it myself l, and see exactly what happens myself. Thanks burke for a spare liter of the sweet sweet moonshine.
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Doing it for all the wagons out there |
#909
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Just to clarify. The fuel cell bladder is whats rated for all fuel compatibility. (600 series fluro cell.) But you choose the foam which suits your requirements. Either gas (petrol) or alcohol (methanol)
I will actually be chopping a fair bit more foam out of the cell in order to make space for the Radium FCST. As that will be alot more bulky than the original lid.
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Doing it for all the wagons out there |
#910
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Been considering the fuel cell location a fair bit over the last few days. And I have made my decision.
I ordered this size cell as it would fit in the drivers side of the OEM tank location (kinda sort of). As in it would fit length and width ways. But the hieght would require the dip in the floor pan where the rear seats would normally go to be nothced out. It would technically also fit on the passenger side of the OEM tank location, except the original tank is contoured near the diff to allow the exhaust pipe to travel rear to the muffler. The drivers side if the tank isnt hindered by this added complication. But I was still unsure if I wanted it there or in a more typical aftermarket cell location like behind the rear diff. The problem with behind the rear diff, is you actually need to go quite a ways back to clear the swaybar. So this puts all the wieght way out rearward. And its also not very structuarally protected back there if I backed it into a wall or something. Although it is far away from the driver. And I do have an idea in my head of building a large rear diffuser tunnel like the WTAC styles. So that was a large factor in me wanting to remove the spare wheel well and flat bottom floor it in the first place. So I got to work and made space for the cell in place of the OEM fuel tank. I cut out enough floor to fit the cell in. Its bloody tight. But it does fit nicely. Its got about 5 mm on the front edge of the cell before it touchs on the diff out rigger. Its got about 5mm on the rear edge before it touchs against the rear crossmember/lateral arm mounting bolt. And its got about 5mm on the side closest the rear diff. And lastly, the other side edge, is about 5mm away from touching the chassis rail where it tapers in to clear the wheel/base of the strut tower area. 2019-03-14_07-43-04 by bram biesiekierski, on Flickr 2019-03-14_07-43-34 by bram biesiekierski, on Flickr Some advantages of putting the cell in this place is its pretty well encapsulated in a pretty strong/safe area of the car. Its surrounded by the diff outrigger and rear crossmembers which are big strong parts of the car. Its also covered over by the cage structure aswell. And i like that it keeps the wieght more closer to the center of the vehicle. I need to now fabricate a proper mounting system for it. I have a pretty good idea in my head how i will do it, that should use the least amount of material/wieght to secure the tank. I will also then need to build a top lid/firewall to enclose the area where the fuel lines enter and exit. I dont want them inside the car. But the top lid will need a large hatch/entry cap type mevhanism to allow fueling directly i to the fuel cell.
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Doing it for all the wagons out there Last edited by Bram; 14-03-2019 at 09:12 PM. |
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sled, yeti |
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