hmm, I think everything is 4 ohm..

so its a 60w x 4 rms....ok for the fronts but the sub will see 120w rms @ 4ohms..

Actually, I think that would be ok, just the amp will be working quite hard, but at 4ohms it should still have good cone control?

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K.E.R.S!!!1

Pete

It would be something along the lines of 60w to each side at the front and 180w to the sub. You do not want to bridge the two rear channels of the amp into a 2 ohm load as I don't think that amp is capable of driving such a load reliably.

As usual, don't get too caught up in the numbers side of this game, as long as it sounds good and goes loud enough for you that should be all that matters. You might be surprised at how little power you actually use for every day listening.

BTW, I think the dump pipe might be off the car.

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John Stamos fan club lifetime member

nice, cheers...I'm sure it will go alright!

Keep me informed. I will be in tokyo all this break but will be in touch after that..

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K.E.R.S!!!1

You are correct Pete, that your JL fronts will see 60wRMS at 4 ohms. You could have got 90 wRMS if you bought splits that were 2 ohm, but these are not as common (ie. soundstream, infinity). Still 60 wRMSwill be enough.

Your not correct about the sub power. The kicker specs say that bridged you will get 175 wRMS with 2 channels bridged on a mono load...bridging will give you more power than 2 x 60 per channel (the 120 figure you quoted above).

Kicker says:
"60 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (90 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms)
175 watts RMS x 2 in bridged mode (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)"

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Back at work.

I agree that you don't want to bridge the 2 channels into 2 ohm....but you do still want to bridge these channels. You just need to make sure that your sub (or subs) have atleast a 4 ohm load.

How:

Pete, you need to check what your sub resistance is. You can get a 2, 4 or 8 ohm single voice coil versions of the JL W3 you bought.

How do you get 4 ohm load from all of these? (which is safe for your amp when 2 channels are bridged)

A) Run 1 x 4 ohm model sub - simplest option. 175 wRMS

B) Run 2 x 8 ohm model subs in parallel - load is 4 ohm, total power still 175 w RMS

C) Run 2 x 2 ohm model subs in series - load is 4 ohm, total power still 175 wRMS

A is deinately the easiest option since you want to be able to quickly remove your sub box. B and C are more expensive (double costs) but would be a bit louder.


+1 for bolting sub in with straps and tek screws. 5 minutes to remove. I was sick of finding my sub on the other side of my boot after spirited driving on off camber corners.

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Back at work.

nope, because you're only using the 175W to power 2 subs then, ie 85w to each sub...

= no doof.

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Balls.

Double the cone area, keep the power the same = 3dB more.
Double the power, keep the cone area the same = 3dB more.

So running two woofers off the same power will be louder. I would say though, rather than adding extra cone area, you should get a well designed slot ported enclosure built for the single woofer. There is so much to be said for box design and oddly enough it's an area most often over looked with the abundance of pre-fab enclosures available these days.

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John Stamos fan club lifetime member