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  #1  
Old 20-11-2008, 09:38 PM
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Default Amp Problem HELP!

Hey guys my old man got a amp installed by a Stereo Place today, and it keeps blowing fuses, it worked for a few hours and keeps blowing 25 amp fuses all the time now and when it is running (not working but powering) the lights in the car dim and go back to normal, dim and go back to normal, any idea's what it could be?
Faulty Amp or they wired it up wrong?

Pioneer 600w running a slim like kicker sub with front pioneer speakers 260w with a $400 Pioneeer HU

Cheers Nathan
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Old 20-11-2008, 09:45 PM
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maybe you need more than 25 amp? mine has a 40 amp in it. dimming and stuff i would think is normal, especially without a cap, because amps draw a lot of power
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Old 20-11-2008, 09:54 PM
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short.
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Old 20-11-2008, 10:10 PM
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hmmm....
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Old 20-11-2008, 11:06 PM
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worked for a few hours before you tweaked the gain/EQ perhaps??.....Overdriving the amp??

turn the bass down one notch....Still popping fuses?
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Old 21-11-2008, 06:42 AM
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Yeh that was the first thing i tried bro still popping
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Old 21-11-2008, 07:07 AM
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Don't mess with it, take the vehicle back to the shop.
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Old 21-11-2008, 07:21 AM
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Check the earthing etc, might not be earth right, and make sure the live power cable (usally thick red 1) is not touching anything that could possibly short it out. If you want, i can have a look at it before you take it bck to the shop, if you do bring the box that the amp came in.
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Old 21-11-2008, 06:58 PM
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Dont put a bigger fuse in!! The amp is provided with the right protection. it will be detrimental if you install a larger fuse. Get a cheap multimeter from dick smith (10 bucks) and with the battery disconnected, test between a metal part of the chassis. (not a painted part) and the red + at the amp, on ohms. The correct reading if everything is fine, will be infinite, Open Circuit, Open Line... one of those depending on which meter you buy. If you get a reading of for example, 1ohm, the cable is touching the metal somewhere. (probably the firewall) Next, test the - screw on the amp.(the black wire) to the same spot on the chassis. you should get a reading of 0-2 ohms. If it is an open circuit, you will get a reading of infinite... see above. If the red wire is not touching the chassis, and the black one is, then you should be ok. You can also test the voltage at the amp. Meter on DC Volts, expect to read between 12-14.3V. If all of these tests dont work, take it back to the shop. It will only take 30mins to do this, as apposed to losing your car for days... hope it helps
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Old 22-11-2008, 06:55 PM
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All good fella's thanx for the help, it was a faulty amp from JB Hi Fi
Pioneer 600w 4 Channel, so were taking it back to JB Hi Fi Myaree, im a apprentice electrician so i understood wat you ment when checking for dead shorts and shit, i took it out this afternoon, after the stereo shop who installed it told us it was the amp, and put my amp the same type but a 2 year old model in and it pumps hard haha

i never thought i would ever come across a faulty amp after purchasing brand new, my old one is cranking in the car now and i had it in my old ford (my first car) for a year and a half, and i used to hammer that with the sub in my boot lol

Cheers Guys
Nathan
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