i'm using the Bob Lite as a modem router, and also Voip access
I'm not worried about the VOIP bit as i can get a separate unit to plug into the replacement modem

I like to use the unit to stream data across the house - nothing fancy like wireless HD access or printing. I've tried to use the plug in the wall fancy wireless signal exteded and gave me an single bar and that's no use to me still

As i said, house isn't big at all. But its old, built in 1901. I reckon the bricks are denser or something! the other option is the get a hard wire from bob and get a wireless router in another part of the house and bridge the wireless signal and also run a LAN from the router to the TV or whatever needs streaming

Like one of the posters above me, I'm using the netgear dw6300, and have the same issue that the range is absolute garbage, however, for Ethernet connections it's proved to be great (thankfully 90% of my pc's connect this way).

I moved from a Belkin play-max which had nothing but issues. I was averaging an adsl 2+ speed of 3.2mb/s but after switching to the netgear, am achieving 4.4mb/s on average.

I had an old billion back in the day and it worked perfectly. Only switched to move to wireless n 300. Will probably get another next time.

using the Perth-WRX mobile app

As with what Goosey has said, I was mostly referring to wireless with the DW6300, hardwired was no problems. The lack of external antennae and solid brick (early 20th centur) house makes for difficult wireless without the antenna.

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Air is for pussies.

I have NakedDsl with iinet, so need to run the Bob Lite modem for the adsl connection.

Just plug your current modem (with its wifi turned off) in to the back of the AirPort Extreme and you have solved your problem and boosted your speeds.

+1 For Billion routers.. Mine is still going strong after 3 years, love it!

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2016 Levorg GT-S
Old man spec.

Billion are better now than what they were about 5 years ago.
Unfortunately their official line of support for quite some time was to "update" the firmware.
Been using a Netgear DG834 (old but works perfectly and has been the most stable modem I've ever used) modem/router and a TP-Link wireless access point which is sitting behind the TV in the middle of the house.

Don't know why, but I'm not a huge fan of All In One hardware packages, if one thing fails, it pulls everything down with it.

Assuming you are on iiNet's on-net plans (Chime DSLAM) I would invest in a modem that features a broadcom chipset.
This will give you the greatest stability (independent of your lines attenuation and SNR on the downstream and upstream).

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2015 Forester XT Premium
2020 VW Tiguan Allspace
teejay: If I wanted a comeback Id wank in front of a fan

Commercial/Enterprise, Cisco for lyfe.

Home, Billion are quite feature rich and simple to operate - but agree with Soksta.

If you're serious, not in a rented property etc, ideally run structured cabling and power dual/triple WAPs with the same SSID around your home on different channels, cabled back to a centralised switch, where your broadband is also terminating on a separate device again.

The new generation you speak of is 5Ghz .AC, but isn't good for penetrating walls/long distance, plus all of your access devices need to support the new standard to be able to use it.

If you don't want to go all out just get a decent 2.4/5Ghz unit and put it in the best possible location you can, up high, away from any electrical interference like microwaves, fridges.

A lot of people think more the better, not so with wireless. Often the WAPs end up "shouting" at one another until they are barely "speaking" at all, which makes it worse. So never put two WAPs next to one another on the same band. They have to be strategically located in commercial environments these days, often with a monitor WAP which oversees the rest of wireless.

Also have a look at some Ethernet Over Power products, which allows you to use your internal power cabling for data. You can plug a WAP into your power socket without needing to do the structured cabling.

http://www.tp-link.com.au/products/?categoryid=206

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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Should have bought an STI

Not 100% on this (resident electrician/data cabler should be able to clear this up), but from memory it will only work on the same power circuit.
If you have the one PoE device at the front of the house (Power CCT 1) and one at the rear of the house (Power CCT2) it most likely won't work.

I actually a set of these floating around the place that I no longer use nor want, they can be made available to test if you (pmh) need them and if they work, you are welcome to keep them.

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2015 Forester XT Premium
2020 VW Tiguan Allspace
teejay: If I wanted a comeback Id wank in front of a fan

This is correct - Personally I have avoided them and gone for the more expensive option and cabled the house in Cat6, but for simple operations on the same circuit i am led to believe they work well.

Having said that, found the below (in my limited experience with EoP devices)

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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Should have bought an STI

Thanks gents
Some of the stuff you speak off went over my head...but I have tried the PoE device, and no deal..still shit

So...would this be a better idea rather than investing in just another wireless router
And that is
Get a hard wire set up, ie connect from modem to near tv
Use a wireless router take off from hard wire
Use router to extend signal and also provide Ethernet connection to tv
Kept the modem wireless router Central to home and high point.
Between the wireless modem and wireless router/extender, that shoul cover the house - front and back so to speak?

I've move bloody bob so many times to find the sweet spot, no luck...and as high as I can
But unless I put another power point up near the ceiling I can't do much more - phucking high ceilings probably not helping

Thanks for the help gents