[QUOTE=V3 RA;494908]
@ the rich dude who works away and has money to throw around, offer Tino 75k for his car and you have 530hpatw on pump over 600 atw on race fuel. prepare to spend atleast 100k making it happen yourself (reliably).[/QUOTE] hahahah more than that chad closer to 100k more like it for me to even consider letting it go :eek: |
Revival time...
My Cossie 2.2 Kit has a forged crank, trying to justify the $4k odd buying a billet crank. How much better are they? Car will not have an easy life, aiming for around 400 atw with potentialy much more as it evolves. So tell me, is it worth it? Or stick with forged and it will suffice? Also has the billet kit got any other differences? |
how is being hard paked a hard life?
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[QUOTE=magic1;554295]how is being hard paked a hard life?[/QUOTE]
"Car [COLOR=Red]will not[/COLOR] have an easy life, aiming for around 400 atw with potentialy much more [COLOR=Red]as it evolves[/COLOR]" |
[quote=magic1;554295]how is being hard paked a hard life?[/quote]
lol |
pingpingpingpings
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I dont understand the difference. If the engine is properly ballanced then there shouldnt be much more stress on the crank. Billet just means its been machined. The thing is the forged one has also been machined but from a forged cast. Im sure they are both ballanced the same.
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I always thought that forged was stronger?
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Massive debates on whether billet or forged is stronger. On paper billet has more tensile strength.
Both balanced the same way but taking material of the counterweights. |
[QUOTE=Reverb;554654]Massive debates on whether billet or forged is stronger. On paper billet has more tensile strength.
Both balanced the same way but taking material of the counterweights.[/QUOTE] Tensile strength doesn't really seem that important for a crank IMO. They don't really take stretching forces anyway. I would go forged. |
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