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#1
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Need some advice on getting a harness.
I need a new harness for doing laps on the open days at the race track. I believe I need a four point harness. I notice there are two types, one that uses a squareish buckle, and one that uses a round buckle with multiple plug in points. Which is preferred and why?
Secondly, where can I get one in WA. Because I need advice I'd rather buy locally for this than off the 'net. I need longish straps as the existing harness attaches to a cage at the rear. It'll need to comply with L2 ? classification. Thanks in advance. |
#2
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Need some advice on getting a harness.
Go see Brian at Cullys Yamaha.. Aka Cullys race equip...
Got all you need, good non "wanker" advice & with great pricing.. It's anchoring to the floor that can be the hardest part in street car. Last edited by baylee; 18-04-2014 at 01:50 PM. |
#3
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GoGear, ask for Ivan.
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Bye bye betty blue. Hello F6. |
#4
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As above, and Mike Nairn at Performance Race Gear. (246 Great Eastern Highway Ascot WA 6014) Believe he has Sparco and another brand, if your south of the river.
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Race Torque Dyno 399 NM, 248Kw @ 20PSI Straight roads are for fast cars, twisty roads are for fast drivers. I have or am neither. http://tttmsp.smugmug.com/ |
#5
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I just bought my harness from Ivan. He won't waste your time & gives solid advice.
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273.2whp / 203.7kw / 371.2nm @ 17psi. Verso tune by ASG. |
#6
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There are 3 main types of buckle.
The cheapest 4 point has a normal seatbelt type buckle with the shoulder and lap belts on each side sewn together. You have to put the harness on like a waitstcoat, threading your arms through then buckling it under your guts. Not bad for a track day but far from ideal in competition. They are limited to 4 points, ie; no crutch strap available. The next type is the 'Nascar' or 'speedway' buckle. They are 4 or 5 point. The buckle is an ugly external latch mechanism that looks like a rat trap. You have to 'load' all the belt buckles onto the latch one at a time then clip the clasp over. They are ideal in dirty situations as mud can be washed out of the latch easily. They can be inadvertently unlatched by your sleeve in a panic steering manouver however and look like shit. Widely recognised as the best option is a rotary buckle or 'aircraft' style. They can be 4, 5 or 6 point. You can start as a 4 point then upgrade to a 5 or 6 when you get race seats by just purchasing the crutch strap if you get the right type of buckle. These are the easiest to put on and the easiest/quickest to undo in an emergency. |
#7
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Slight hijack here. dtrally do you reckon HANS and tethers are overkill for local the sprint series, McRae and Barbs?
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Bye bye betty blue. Hello F6. |
#8
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Adding to the hijack, any event where you could end up front first into a wall a HANS type device would help. Not compulsory for club or speed events, but maybe for Rally Sprint. $600 for hans plus helmet.
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Race Torque Dyno 399 NM, 248Kw @ 20PSI Straight roads are for fast cars, twisty roads are for fast drivers. I have or am neither. http://tttmsp.smugmug.com/ |
#9
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+1 for the camlock, so much easier and more secure. Another thing worth mentioning is to check the dates on the harnesses, depending where you end up going to purchase them, may have older stock.
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God gave us feet...so we could work the pedals properly That wasn't a U-turn! It was two consecutive right hand turns. |
#10
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Quote:
I went for a drive at the local racetrack and the scrutineer pointed out that my existing harness (and borrowed helmet) was out of date. Hence the search for replacements. I might add that the scrutineer and others at the track were very friendly and helpful for my first drive on a track. |
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advice, harness |
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