On subarus. Im of the opinion the best place to put the tank is down the left side of the gearbox as i described above.

The reasons why :
1-On subarus, the fuel lines come out of the firewall near the left strut tower. So if the tank is close to there. Its very easy to plumb the system, with a minimum of hose/fittings etc.
2-on subarus, the battery is also on the front left corner. So easy to wire the heavy gauge wiring to run the pumps. Also the ECU is on the left floor area. So very close to the ECU to control the relay etc.
3-you dont put fuel system inside the car or boot. So its safer and ypu dont lose boot space. Also on foresters like my car, the boot IS the cabin.
4-the area is relatively safe from mild collision impacts.
5-the space is high enough vertically to fit a decent volume tank. (Tanks generally work by having a tall thin shape, so the fuel is always anove the pickup, and not subject to surging, inside the surge tank.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

Bram's Radium surge tank is a really nice bit of kit but for what they cost I've pretty much done my entire fuel system for that.

This is mine. Although I have changed the fuel filter for something better than that speedflow thing since the picture was taken as it just needed cleaning too often.

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605whp
Quarter Mile in 10.9 seconds @ 135mph /217kph
0-100 kph 3.2 seconds

Hi guys,

Sorry have been unwell in the last few days, down with a flu and virus.

Thanks again so much Bram and Daz for that very informative post.

I do like the sound of it being outside the car, I am just a tad bit worried in terms of ground clearance because my car is lowered although not to an extreme level but it's been known to sometime have light scrubbing on the cat after the dump pipe (if that makes sense hahah)

Ideally I would love for it to be on the engine bay but the person that did my engine said there's no room to fit them in the engine bay, but I have seen some do it so I'm not sure if this is at all possible.

Yes I have also been told to get Walbro instead of Bosch as the noise will definitely be annoying to put up with.

So what I'm wondering is whether there is a tank kit that comes with a mounting bracket that will allow me to use Walbro Pump?

Also I've seen a lot of them comes in twin bracket for twin fuel pump like what Daz had on the picture, would I need twin pump or single be enough?

@Daz just wondering would your pump fit inside a tyrewell in the boot? I was thinking of that location?

Thanks again guys

Yeah. The radium stuff is pricey. But my tank is pricey because it has alot of features. Firstly the fuel regulator is built in, meaning you dont buy it seperately.
Probs $2-300 extra right there. Also, the fuel system is a dead-end system with no return. This means less plumbing for the return, and less plumbing to where the fuel reg would typically be, as its included in the actual tank. I worked it out that the dead-end system with intergrated regulator actually saves nearly $300 worth of fuel fittings and hose, if you are using a premium teflon AN hose system like Speedflow or equivalent, when compared to doing a conventional layout also using Speedflow.

And as i discussed in my previous post, surge tanks that include the pump internally cost more because you need to get the electrical circuit through a fuel safe pass through. The plug/sockets such as used by radium are around $100 just for the connector. And you also need a sealed hatch to access the fuel pump for instal/replacement. An external pump surge tank doesnt need those features. So naturally picking an internal pump tank is gonna be pricey.

And Radium are pretty pricey even when vompared to other internal pump surge tanks. But they are very sexy gear. Machined from a solid billet as opposed to fabricated from sheet aluminium etc.

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Doing it for all the wagons out there

Ring the guys at Process West and see if they have something. Or if the new kit like I have installed on my betty can be adapted to suit.

It's not a cheap kit but very comprehensive and it works perfect.

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Bye bye betty blue. Hello F6.

yeah PW make (used to?) one for GC's that sit behind the rear bumper, passenger side.

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Balls.

It's expensive but it is without doubt the best kit I've seen although the New PW kit is up there too.

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605whp
Quarter Mile in 10.9 seconds @ 135mph /217kph
0-100 kph 3.2 seconds

I have read this post with interest as I have recently purchased a 2003 STI and have had the engine completely rebuilt with 24-thou oversize CP pistons and King race bearings with big heads and ARP head studs. I am running a Blouch 1.5 dominator 7 cm Rear housing. I have a 3 inch cat less system Right through and I have unequal length aftermarket stainless steel headers. I have a four bar map sensor and a big fuel pump with 850 Bosch injectors I have a modified some that helps stop oil surge. This is all running through a new Hatech platinum ECU.
That’s about all I can think of at the moment but once I put more than 17 psi into the turbo there is very little increase in power and the engine begins to fight itself and make heat instead of power. That is the reason I punched the cat out, to try and get better flow, which of course is the issue at stake. Before I remove the internals of the cat I was making 276 hp at the wheels. Where With the old heads I was making 300 wheel hp. The big heads obviously were flowing more into the motor and it couldn’t get out fast enough to allow more boost. My aim is something near 300 kW at the wheels (400 hp).
My question is: what do I do to improve the flow of this dominator turbo that everybody seems so happy about?
Thanks for your help. Cheers John

Do I need a different rear housing?
Do I need an external wastegate?
I don’t just want to spend dyno money Before I make any necessary changes and have to get it all returned again. I had problems with the first set of heads and so had to do a total re-tune after putting new big heads of it. It’s getting a bit expensive to keep experimenting. Thanks again

can you explain Big heads ?