[QUOTE=Hurtenstein]1700 is just for the autronic unit, not for install and tune. is the price you got quoted for the link including install and tune?[/QUOTE]

Yeh $2200 for the LINKS ECU to be installed and dyno tuned! Alex said it can give you a minimum of an extra 30kw just on a stock wrx but i have a FMIC, TBE, Getting a turb and silicon intake pipe also EBC all installed at the same time so hopefully i should be pulling some numbers, not expecting it to be to high but hopefully have a quick wrx! This should be within the next month!!!

A Link G3 is the same price as the Autronic at the moment,
never tried that so i dont know how its going tho..

I have had my link for about 3 years now. It was intially given a base/street tune and ran well although it was very rich and blew heaps of black crap out the exhaust. Got it dyno tuned a week later and sorted that issue.

Car made 150kw atw after link as opposed to 102kw atw prior on the same dyno dynamics roller dyno.

On start-up you flick ignition to on wait for a click and then fire the car up.
Have had no pros with the link as the car is stock with only an exhaust.

For me it does the job and $2200 sound quite reasonable. Resolution (the ability to fine tune the ecu and more points) may not be as high as the other brands but it depends on what you want.
My shopping list was more power/response
Tunerbility (as you could not tune the stock ecu at that time)
Cost.

Did not want to spend over $3k for Autronic or Motec or run anti-lag as it served no purpose to me for a street car and would shorten the life of some parts.

I was offered the link at a good price and the rest is history.


As for flames,
Tristan AKA WRXOTIC would disagree with link not making good flames, his car would shoot 1 metre long ones on request.

Go on, join the link club.

Toni

overall the link G3 is a better product then the autronic sm4, more features & resolution

the link G1 on the other hand is rubbish for the price, its on par with wolf 3d for features/resolution and is a downgrade in resolution from the standard ecu.

anyone had Link G3 installed in their car?

Link is quick easy and does the job. Never have to worry about it breaking down like Autronics do sometimes (the ecu just dies).

Its all in the tune . If you get a good 10 row link tune then its all good. Idle can be a little dodgey sometimes but once your car has rolled out of the garage its all good.

Well worth the money if you want total control.

Having said that I would get Verso if it was a non gc8 car. Verso isnt available for GC8 so just get a link.

Hand controller has saved me on many times by telling me about problems and allowing me to set rev limits that are super low when i give workshops the keys.

[QUOTE=Ethos]anyone had Link G3 installed in their car?[/QUOTE]

Spoke wit Alex at RMS last week, if im not wrong the Link G3 had gone
into some 03 model. There is no G3 for gc :mad:

[QUOTE=joey89]Yeah the links idel are pretty shocking only down fall

But nothing to lose sleep over![/QUOTE]
Joey, if your idle is crap bring ya Link around here and we will sort it out. I too had problems initially after a RMS street tune, found a nice hint on the MRT website and had no problems whatso-ever after that. I will try to dig it out. :)

Its all in the tune.

J

wrx diamond.....

Don't bother with Anti-Lag on the PossumLink as you will loose too much fuel and ignition resolution in the maps.

$2200 for a brand new PossumLink install + dyno time hey ? Hmmm.
They do pop up every now and then for $700 ish second hand which is great value for money and a couple of hours dyno time would not cost the $1500 differance.

If I was buying brand new I would seriously look into getting a PowerFC for a 99/00 WRX. These go for around $900 new and are a superior ECU with a nice handcontroller included. Get Sean at ASG to tune it and you will be laughing.

J

Power FC is definitely a good choice..... cheap too.

Didnt GTR ETA have a powerFC in it? or possibly still does?

Is it the poor mans MoteC?

I would like to add though that the Power FC retains the unreliable MY99/00 Air Flow Meter (AFM). To do the job properly you would want to replace it with a Nissan Z32 AFM for reliability ($350 ish)

See the Power FC thread......

The PossumLink will not have this problem as it uses Manifold Air Pressure.....

J

Oh yeah sweet as Jme!

Give us a PM if you find it or we can arrange something . . .

To all those having problems with Link ECU's idle I refer you to this link, straight from the MRT Website...

[url]http://www.mrtrally.com.au/performance/linktunetips.htm[/url]



For V5/6 (WRX/STi 99/00) PossumLink ECU Users:

Zones 17 and 18 are the ones that are important. If Leigh did your tune he might have got em around the wrong way!!!! Basically try 24 in Zone 17 and between 70 <--> 80 in ZONE 18. Worked for me. :) :)



Subaru Impreza WRX/GT ver. 5 6 with stepper motor idle control ZONE 17 (over run vacuum) general notes
This is the point where it registers what a trailing throttle is and it wont try to control idle typically set at 24 (24kpa) Idle is normally around 40kpa So on a training throttle when you back off the vacuum goes below 24kpa, the ECU will ignore the reading hence stopping it from trying to control idle via the idle control motor. This stops the engine from having a fluctuating idle when the situation occurs that you do end up at idle it wont have to massively re open the idle motor to compensate.

Subaru Impreza WRX/GT ver. 5 6 with stepper motor idle control ZONE 18
(default stepper motor figure for off idle position) general notes
These notes are only relevant to later model chips fitted to this ECU Typically a "magical" number of steps, and idle should be approx 60, so as this setting should be then set to 70 - 80. So when you step off the throttle the motor is at 70 - 80 and has not got far to move to a satisfactory idle setting.
The number in the idle screen in select zones, will be in brackets, is the number of steps at idle.

There is five symbols that also appear in this screen
neg (-) means the stepper motor is trying to pull idle down
pos (+) means the stepper motor is trying to pull idle up
V (V) means overrun vacuum condition, actual engine vac has gone below set amount (see notes on Zone 17)
T (T) means the throttle is off idle (and open)
= (=) means the idle has achieved the idle you chose
(IE if idle rpm (zone 8) was set to 800 and the car IS
idling @800 then (=) will appear)
NOTE re zone 8 idle rpm
The number displayed is double divided by 10
IE if idle is 800 the display is 16
IE if the idle is 1000 the display is 20

is it worth plugging the hand controller in and checking the parameters or is the laptop the better way to check settings/values?

Also, what is the best way to connect the controller? any special precautions to avoid damaging the ecu?

[QUOTE=wrx-sti]Ive had no problems with mine. If you have a 2k budget then yeah go for one. just dont get the antilag function.[/QUOTE]


why.. im gettin one with it enabled whats the deal why shuldn't u get it?

and also who can tune links the best?

[QUOTE=Carnivore]why.. im gettin one with it enabled whats the deal why shuldn't u get it?[/QUOTE]

why?

it increases fuel use, decreases turbo life, requires extra switches for air con, is about as useful as a solar powered torch at night for street use.

no real need for it in all honesty, car will perform better with the ecu, antilag will gain you nothing.

lols yeah im just in it for the noise u know how us p platers are lol

[QUOTE=mrclubspecevo4]why?

it increases fuel use, decreases turbo life, requires extra switches for air con, is about as useful as a solar powered torch at night for street use.

no real need for it in all honesty, car will perform better with the ecu, antilag will gain you nothing.[/QUOTE]

It also reduces the Rows you have for tuning, and disables the PC Link.

[QUOTE=mrclubspecevo4]is it worth plugging the hand controller in and checking the parameters or is the laptop the better way to check settings/values?

Also, what is the best way to connect the controller? any special precautions to avoid damaging the ecu?[/QUOTE]
i would just use the HandController to change/check Zones 17+18.
The best way is to just leave the ribbon cable connected to the ECU permanently and plug in the handcontroller when needed if you have no space on the dash.

Just be sure the igntion is off before plugging anything in. :rolleyes:

J

[QUOTE=Yeah]Spoke wit Alex at RMS last week, if im not wrong the Link G3 had gone
into some 03 model. There is no G3 for gc :mad:[/QUOTE]

The first Link G3 from Alex went into my MY04. I got it installed end of last year.. I haven't tried any other ECU besides UTEC(which sux). Previously with UTEC, I had exhaust "popping" all the time and engine cuts off intermittently at high revs. With the G3, its very smooth. Only complaint is the idle rev (only when air-cond is on).

Idle problem should be fixable tho.
G3 come wit antillah like autronic does?

I would assume anti-lag would on really be needed for turbos that spool at like 4 thou and whatnot. No point having it on a stock TD04 as it spools at 2 1/2 thou (from the sounds of my pod filter anywayz :P) and doesnt take much to get going.

Anyone with a GC8 I will have a Link AntiLag chip for sale in a few weeks time.
PM an offer.


I'm not sure if the AntiLag chip is model specific eg. 94-96, 97-98, 99-00, or generic for all GC8's...anyone here know?

car is going into RMS on may 1st for the new links G3 ECU, VF34, Silicon intake for better flow! Should have power figures up around the 200kw mark atw.

Cant wait

ps: G3 has antilag built in

good luck with it mate sounds good, should go very hard with those mods, might see ya car in there that day coz mines going to rms for a service that day as well.

Cool wit a Link G3, let us how it's going after the tuned!! :D

Didn't realise the G3 worked with the GC8's.. Look forward to hearing the results compared to Joey with the old Link.

ps, link, not link[b]s[/b] ;)

[QUOTE=sleepy]Didn't realise the G3 worked with the GC8's.. Look forward to hearing the results compared to Joey with the old Link.[/QUOTE]

Yeh Leigh has tuned 2 stroked GC8's only, mine will be the first normal ej20 to have one :D . Apprently there as good and even better in some areas than autronics/motec etc! Motec is obviously only of the best ECU's but.

Will let everyone know what the results are after the dyno! Should be done within the next 2 -3 weeks

[QUOTE=wrx_diamond]Apprently there as good and even better in some areas than autronics/motec etc![/QUOTE]

that i'd like to see.

[QUOTE=wrx_diamond]Apprently there as good and even better in some areas than autronics/motec etc! [/QUOTE]

Fuel consumption ? :P

[QUOTE=jEstEr?]Fuel consumption ? :P[/QUOTE]

cause they run lean? :)

As good as a Link ECU is (I'm not a hater, I used a Link for 3 years), dont ever ever let anyone tell you that its better than a MoTeC....there is much evidence that proves otherwise.

[QUOTE=BALISTC]As good as a Link ECU is (I'm not a hater, I used a Link for 3 years), dont ever ever let anyone tell you that its better than a MoTeC....there is much evidence that proves otherwise.[/QUOTE]

yeh thats true man! But for half the price Link is still going to do a excellent job! What is the RRP for a motec?

Motec is for those people that like to live safely.........................................Link lets you live on the edge. :angryfire

Link all the way baby. :)

MoTeC is $2828 plus tune. Antilag is another $250.

Out of curiousity, how much is a Link G3?

ahh ok, the g3 is $2800 including dyno and has antilag already! A little cheaper than the motec! But for almost the same price, your prolly thinking "You should of chose MoTeC" arnt you!???

haha

Nah not going to say that...its about 1k less than a MoTeC, tuned and installed.

Looking at the G3 website, the specs are up there for sure....I'd definitely say its a LOT closer to an Autronic and a Motec than the previous generation Links! Finally has all the pro options and specifications that it should have had all along.

I'm seriously interested in seeing how it goes, cos as I said I'm a Link user from way back, so keep us updated :)