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#11
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Playing with electricity is fun...
IMO if you need to ask the question, I'd leave it to a proffesional before you accidentally fry you ECU or melt a chunk of your harness into stinky mess. But, hey, it's your money
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Kiss My RS |
#12
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Quote:
That other switch will be for something else, likely launch control, which Link refer to as a form of anti lag as well. You should disconnect the negative terminal of the battery before performing any work on the electrical system of your car, fault finding obviously excepted. The fact that one of the switches is soldered and the other isn't doesn't really mean anything, but soldering is always a better connection, plugs are just much easier to remove.
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John Stamos fan club lifetime member |
#13
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you should have 2 buttons 1 that turns antilag and rotational idle on at the same time and another that is used for launch control or whatever foxeys right. do yourself a favour mate youve spent the money on the car dont stuff things up for probably a $50 job you no what i mean. . . in the end its up to u
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#14
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thanks for the input guys, i thought though it being a simple solder on job i could do myself
i was told one was anti-lag and one was rotational idle as it is labled 'AL' & 'ID' when i activate the ID switch, idle speed shoots to about 2000 rpm. and when i activate AL switch, anti lag is activated (not that i do use it) |
#15
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What you may find you have is a switch to turn on the actual physical valve (which is why the idle speed increases) and another to turn on anti lag on the ECU. Ideally you should use the same switch (a double pole type) to turn on both. This will prevent anti lag being turned on without the valve being opened, which will make the car behave strangely.
It is a simple solder job to do, but as I say, you should always disconnect the negative terminal from the battery before undertaking such tasks. Why not just disconnect the switch altogether if you don't use it?
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John Stamos fan club lifetime member |
Tags |
g3, link, switches |
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