Did you check the afr ratios at idle as well as air temp compensation?

Also, when you turn on your lights at night, do the lights flicker and brighten up and stabilises when you rev the car? If it does, you've got a bad earth somewhere. Getting a grouding kit will solve that.

no thats a bit over my head, haven't hooked the link up to a laptop to check but i will mention that to leigh when i get him to retune it, just want to make sure everything is operating as it should before i do

had a poke around with my multimeter last night, battery voltage at idle or when revved never goes above 13.8v so i'm suspecting the voltage reg inside the alternator is on its way out?

okay so i've tried a few different configurations with the hose to the map sensor, makes not difference really, added some extra earth wires from the battery to the chassis/block/ecu cradle

the problem seems to be exaggerated when the headlights are on, could this be an alternator problem?

okay, so I replaced the plugs and coilpacks beacuse i had them there anyway
also remove the avcs solenoid banjo bolt filters, however.....

idle is still dodgey

wideband AFR gauge arrived yesterday so i've now connected that up, i've noticed that when driving along normarlly with partial throttle the gauge sits around the 13-15 range although if i get off the gas pedal completely the gauge goes all the way to lean as the revs drop to idle... is this normal?

when i'm sitting stationary & the idle starts to wander the gauge is flickering on 18-20 & somethimes full lean

when i'm sitting stationary & the idle is fine the gauge flickers at 14.7-15 (which i think it should be doing all the time)

when car is at WOT the gauge shows no sign of running lean (flits qround between 11 & 13)

someone please coprrect me if i'm wrong but if it was in the tune, it would be a constant problem not intermittent wouldn't it ?

starting to think my injectors need a clean/service/replace ????

can i have some opinions please

Where did you located your O2 sensor for the wideband?

Sometimes the wrong location of the O2 will read 18-20 at idle because there is not enuugh exhaust pressure.

If you did the above, please locate your O2 sensor to the front pipe where the factory O2 sensor is for more accuracy.

If you already did it right, then I would check the tune again at idle. There are tables for cold start and idle which you have to go into the software to get the tune right.

WOT flirting between 11-13??? That is way too lean already at 13....... dangerous!!!! Try consistent 11.2s pls at WOT.

Set up a Vi-pec ecu today (not RoughStilin's car), started up first time and idled perfect. Will be tuning it tomorrow , but bearing in mind that the software and firmware is different although the board is similar (not entirely though I am not at liberty to say), I will look at the idle set-ups and give you some details if it will help u.

Regards,
Mao

yeah wideband sensor is in the stock gc8 location - right behind the turbo

so have you tuned link ecu's using pclink before?

keen for a play?

edit: sounds like this is where it needs a little fine tuning:


There is always a delay between an injector being energised and the injector actually opening. Likewise, there is a small delay between the injector being de-energised and the injector closing. Because the opening time is considerably longer than the closing time, the overall result is that less fuel will flow for a given pulse width than would be expected with an 'ideal' injector'

To compensate for this PC Link increases the injector pulse widths to compensate for this 'dead-time'. The dead-time for a given injector is a function of the battery voltage, differential fuel pressure and the type of injector control (saturation or peak and hold). A typical dead-time at 3Bar differential fuel pressure and 14 volts is just under 1ms (ms = millisecond = 1 thousandth of a second).


In applications with a linear 1:1 fuel pressure regulator (ie not a rising rate regulator), the differential fuel pressure (difference between manifold pressure and fuel pressure) will be constant. Therefore the only variable that can change, thus affecting the injector dead time, is the battery voltage (this can change with electrical load - e.g. when the air conditioning or lights are switched on - and sometimes engine speed).


Without correction, the changes in dead time will cause the engine to run lean when the voltage drops. If the Injector Voltage Correction is properly setup then changes in the battery voltage will not affect the air/fuel ratio.


The injector dead-time table in PC Link allows the dead-time for different battery voltages to be entered. The values represent the dead-time in milliseconds. These should increase with falling system voltage. Dead time values for a particular injector can be entered directly or a preset Injector Type selected.

Unfortunately we have not had much experience with the Link. Warick has done the Link before but wasnt too impressed with the older software as the older software had tuning started in the middle of the tables.

You might have a newer version of the software so it might be a lot different.

Will be happy to look at it in about 2 weeks time, got some catching up to do at the moment.

Regards,
Mao