Im agree wit that Ric

A decent lambda meter and sensor is not an economical option...generally only why workshops or race teams own them.
Find a workshop that you are comfortable with and get it on a dyno. If you are restricted by budget leave it on the actuator /run in setting. Keep it on a "Run In "oil as well for the first 10000kms.

Do not trust any mechanic that seems to think they have a lambda sensor up their nose...they won't be sharing your 2nd rebuild expenses. It's the second rebuild in under a year that hurts the most. Who built this engine???

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Speak to Shane @ SMC Tyres, Unit 6/385 Sevenoaks St Beckenham WA 6107. Mobile 0413 128 087. Tell him Maddog sent you!

This is what i've heard too .. Sure, it's true to some degree, but not entirely. I have done all my mods to my car, and not had a single tune yet.

After talking to lots of people, it made sense to do all my mods first, and then do a tune at the end, seems logical right?

Sure .. I know that right now, i don't have the maximum performance from my mods, but i've done enough research to ensure that the car is running safely, particularly the 65MM APS CAI, as going any wider throws out the AFM which causes it to run lean.

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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Should have bought an STI

To combat any differences in stories, i think with my first mining pay i will just get a STi TMIC, PowerFC, z32 AFM, EBC and a Tune. Then go for Fuel pump, injectors, turbo later on. Seems the logical way, 2 tunes but will be safer i spose!

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Honda Hannspree Edition CBR 600 RR - SOLD
Yamaha FZ1N - Purchased

Why spend all the time and $$ on mods and then not do a tune? Makes no sense at all to me. Perhaps you should look at tune and you will get the max out of what you have and peace of mind at the same time! my 2 cents

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Funny looking German Subaru

All Star Garage
Unit 3, 21 Vale Rd Malaga (08) 9248 7433
WRX specialist

Explains why its on a run in boost of only 8psi, Sean knows what he is doing.

Facts: most engine rebuilds leave very little change out of $6500. You won't get a second hand long motor supplied for less than $2500 + installed for another $1100...
So a $100 run on a dyno to test if that new modification is safe to use at high boost is just common sense...and if you can't afford the extra $100 just disconnect the boost solenoid wiring and run off the default manual setting like Nails is. Retune later.

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Speak to Shane @ SMC Tyres, Unit 6/385 Sevenoaks St Beckenham WA 6107. Mobile 0413 128 087. Tell him Maddog sent you!

See there's the problem. Just because a car is driving around does not mean it is 'fine'. Have a look at the air-fuel ratio's of a car with just a CAI installed. Car runs 'fine' but was causing damage to the engine. This may never be seen by the owner/driver but could end up in a costly re-build.

The reason why a lot of more experienced guys say "do a tune" is they know this is what happens. Most people jump in, car starts fine, and only think they need a tune for more power.

As Morgan said above, it's cheap to get a quick power run with AFR's to see if your mod is causing problems.

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[COLOR="Gray"]550Nm off a 2L... Just wish it was in the dak dak...[/COLOR]

I was running 24 bar on my GC with just an exhaust and bleed valve, pissed white smoke but went really hard, then i just started having problems with it....

TUNE IT!

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PerthWRX - Where gay singles meet!

24 bar!!!?? :P u mean almost 2 bar or 24 psi. Hehe yeah ECU first then ill build from there i have decided

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Honda Hannspree Edition CBR 600 RR - SOLD
Yamaha FZ1N - Purchased