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View Poll Results: Cold air intake? or no cold air intake?
CAI 14 70.00%
No CAI 6 30.00%
Voters: 20. You may not vote on this poll

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  #11  
Old 22-02-2009, 07:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daaaamien
That's what i would have thought, because the turbo would be around the same temp as the exhaust rite?
Hrmm i wouldn't think so but i may be wrong..
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  #12  
Old 22-02-2009, 09:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daaaamien
I'm talking about having your pod inside the guard tho.
So there is more piping bends ect.
The lag will come from AFTER the turbo has compressed the charge of air. The length of your intercooler pipework is what affects lag. By the way lag is the time taken for the turbo to spool to full boost after the point at which full boost is achieved from idle (known as the boost threshold). So if your turbo makes full boost by 3600rpm (threshold) and you are cruising at 5000rpm (no throttle, coasting, 0psi) and nail the accelerator to the floor, the time it takes from that point for the turbo to reach full boost again is lag.

By using a CAI in-gaurd kit you are effectively no longer taking air from the engine bay (and the associated heat). By starting with a lower intake temp a certain percentage, the end result is that when that same air enters the combustion chamber, it will also be a certain percentage cooler. Remembering that cooler air is denser = there is more air to be used in the combustion process which means you have to add more fuel to keep the mixture at the correct ratio = drum roll................

More powahhhhhhhhhh. I hope all that makes sense
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  #13  
Old 22-02-2009, 10:36 PM
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thanks for the feedback.

and yea i know the colder the air the more percentage of oxygen in it so the hotter it burns, therefore more power

But the question still stands...

If someone has actually had both and if an extra $300-$400 for a pipe will be worth it...

Quote:
Originally Posted by phizzle
The lag will come from AFTER the turbo has compressed the charge of air. The length of your intercooler pipework is what affects lag. By the way lag is the time taken for the turbo to spool to full boost after the point at which full boost is achieved from idle (known as the boost threshold). So if your turbo makes full boost by 3600rpm (threshold) and you are cruising at 5000rpm (no throttle, coasting, 0psi) and nail the accelerator to the floor, the time it takes from that point for the turbo to reach full boost again is lag.

By using a CAI in-gaurd kit you are effectively no longer taking air from the engine bay (and the associated heat). By starting with a lower intake temp a certain percentage, the end result is that when that same air enters the combustion chamber, it will also be a certain percentage cooler. Remembering that cooler air is denser = there is more air to be used in the combustion process which means you have to add more fuel to keep the mixture at the correct ratio = drum roll................

More powahhhhhhhhhh. I hope all that makes sense
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  #14  
Old 22-02-2009, 11:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daaaamien
But the question still stands...

If someone has actually had both and if an extra $300-$400 for a pipe will be worth it...
Putting a pipe that will blow cold air into the vicinity of a pod filter already in your engine bay for $300 or $400 would certainly not be good bang for buck. However having a piece of pipe that will join onto your AFM, go through the gaurd wall and down into the front of the wheel arch area, then stick the pod on that (which is what I'm guessing you mean) would be much better and produce better results.
Having said that, I wouldn't expect it to be like "wow what a difference" as far as the bumn dyno goes. It will make a pretty good induction noise though and as it appeals to my inner ricer I say go for it!! Any decent exhaust workshop could rig one up for you for less than $300 though, including a bracket on the pod end to secure it real nice. It would just be a matter of getting a nice seal onto the AFM side as your pod filter should already have an adapter and O clamp type set up.
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  #15  
Old 22-02-2009, 11:20 PM
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i dont think there are huge power gains, and the money could be put towards a mod that will make a difference. do it if you want piece of mind that the engine is getting a little colder air. without knowing what mods you do have, i would say make sure you have an exhaust before the cai, and possibly a bigger tmic/fmic and bigger turbo. they are mods you will see gains from
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  #16  
Old 22-02-2009, 11:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phizzle
However having a piece of pipe that will join onto your AFM
Yes thats a CAI isnt it? unless there a different types...

ok so there is not much of a performance gain if im only running a stock turbo and intercooler?
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  #17  
Old 22-02-2009, 11:52 PM
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You are better off using the standard air box with a good panel filter & having piping going from your lower inner guard to the air box.........provided you don't have front mount as the piping usually gets in the way.

You also need to be careful of getting your pod wet if it's in guard & it's a pain to remove or clean.

Also looks more stock & you can make it out of 90mm PVC for less than $20, I've had mine in for 3yrs without a problem & it has really good induction noise.

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  #18  
Old 23-02-2009, 12:12 AM
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Last edited by Adz; 23-02-2009 at 12:20 AM.
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  #19  
Old 23-02-2009, 08:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daaaamien
$300-$400


Thats an awfull expensive way to gain a whopping 1BHP and a bit of extra noise.

Unless you are removing restrictions further on in the system it would be better to save your money and investigate other bolt on tweaks first.

In fact you are going to see better results spending that $400 on new plug leads, spark plugs, injector clean and a tank of 98 RON.
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  #20  
Old 23-02-2009, 08:19 AM
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i wouldnt bother with a CAI, they make near as no difference once the car is in motion.
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